6 Causes of a Manual Transmission Being Hard to Shift
Grinding those gears despite having an experienced clutch foot? A manual transmission that’s become difficult to shift could have you grinding your teeth too. From worn synchros to low transmission fluid, several culprits can leave your stick shift feeling sticky.
Identifying what’s impeding your slick shifts takes a bit of investigation. Here are the most common causes of a manual transmission that’s hard to shift.
Manual Transmission Basics
The manual transmission relies on several key components working in unison to transmit engine power to the wheels. At the heart of the system is the clutch, which connects and disconnects the engine and transmission. It consists of a clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, and throw-out bearing.
When the clutch pedal is pressed, the throw-out bearing pushes the pressure plate back, separating the clutch disc from the flywheel to allow gear changes. Gears of different sizes on the layshaft and output shaft provide varying transmission ratios. Collars slide along the splined output shaft to mesh different gear pairs.
Synchronizers match the speeds of the collar and target gear before they engage. The selector fork moves the collar into place when shifting gears. Power flows from the layshaft to the meshed gears on the output shaft, which turns the wheels.
So while not as flashy, the components of a manual transmission still work together in an intricate sequence. The synchronized dance may be hidden from view, but precise movements are still required to seamlessly harness and transmit power to the drive wheels.
If you’re curious and want to know how exactly a manual transmission works, check out the video below:
6 Reasons for a Hard to Shift Manual Transmission
When your stick shift transmission is gradually becoming harder to shift or all of a sudden becomes more difficult to shift into gears, the reason will almost positively be one of the following.
#1 – Clutch System
The clutch system of a vehicle is responsible for disengaging and engaging power to the transmission while in between the flywheel of the engine. There are 6 main parts of a clutch system:
- Clutch master cylinder
- Slave cylinder
- Clutch cover
- Clutch disc
- Release bearing
- Clutch release fork
The clutch disc and input shaft transmission are engaged together. And the clutch cover is connected to the engine’s flywheel.
When you push down on the clutch pedal, the pressure will transmit to the clutch master cylinder which pushes the slave cylinder then pushes the release fork to disengage between the clutch cover and clutch disc. At this point, your car is in Neutral.
This means that at that moment the engine spin (power) does not transmit to the transmission. This allows you to easily change gears with a manual shift stick. However, if the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is damaged or leaks, it will make it harder to shift gears.
This can happen because if the master cylinder or slave cylinder is damaged or leaks, it can cause loss of fluid pressure which can make the clutch not disengage properly.
If the clutch and engine do not properly disengage, the manual transmission will be hard to shift into any gear, or even not be able to shift at all.
See Also: 6 Symptoms of a Slipping Clutch
#2 – Synchronizer Ring
The purpose of the synchronizer or synchro ring is to effortlessly engage the gear. The ring is made up of small teeth which allow it to smoothly be engaged by the hub sleeve and then into the main gear.
If the synchronizer ring were to get damaged or malfunction in some way, it would be difficult to shift the transmission.
#3 – Gears
The manual transmission systems’ main component is the gear, which is made up of the counter gear, reverse gear, 1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear, 5th gear, and sometimes 6th gear and more. Each gear has 2 teeth that are small and big.
The purpose of the smaller teeth is to accept the hub sleeve’s engagement with the synchronizer ring. If these small teeth were to become damaged or worn out, it would be difficult to shift the transmission.
And when a gear is shifted, the function of the bigger teeth is to engage the spinning counter gear which sends a transmission to the output shaft. If the big teeth are damaged or worn out, the transmission will make noise.
See Also: Causes of a Car That Won’t Go Into Reverse
#4 – Hub Gear
Between two different gears, there is a hub gear that engages them. For example, the hub gear goes between the first gear and second gear, and it goes between third gear and fourth gear. It is really like a bridge between these gears.
Since the hub gear is connected to the transmission shaft, it cannot be turned freely. A damaged or worn out hub gear will create problems when it comes to shifting your manual transmission.
#5 – Hub Sleeve
The hub sleeve engages the main gears from the hub gear. Depending on the location in which the gear shifts, the hub sleeve can also move to the right and left. The hub gear is like the deliverer of the engagement that lies between the main gear and the hub gear.
There are small teeth on the hub gear that will synchronize with the teeth of the synchro ring as a gear shift takes place in the transmission. But if the hub sleeve were to get damaged or worn out, it would be difficult to shift the transmission.
#6 – Not Enough Gear Oil
Gear oil, as opposed to transmission fluid for automatic transmissions, is what lubricates the gears of a manual gearbox. It is considered high viscosity (thick) since it has to put up with extreme heat.
If your transmission is leaking oil or even if you do not change it periodically, you will have low oil in the gear. Once this happens, it will eventually become harder to shift it and ultimately, damage to your transmission will result.
In addition, you may hear strange noises from your gearbox or poor vehicle performance.
See Also: How to Identify What Transmission You Have
Maintaining the health of your manual transmission is important to help prevent any shifting issues. Let’s look at a few key aspects of manual transmission maintenance that you can easily follow.
- Make it a habit to regularly check and maintain the proper level of transmission fluid or gear oil in your vehicle. This helps to lubricate the gears and allows those smooth gear changes. Keeping an eye on the color and consistency of the transmission fluid can also help you identify small problems before they turn into something much bigger.
- Inspecting the shifter cable for any signs of wear or damage is also recommended. A faulty shifter cable can lead to hard shifting or difficulty in engaging gears. If you notice any issues, get it repaired or replaced promptly.
- Pay attention to any unusual smells or noises. If it smells like something’s burning when you shift gears, it could be a problem with the clutch. I you hear metallic noises or chatter when shifting, you may be low on gear oil or there may even be some damage in the gearbox.
FAQs
Why Is Shifting Into First Gear and Reverse Difficult?
It can be difficult to shift into first or reverse for several reasons. One common cause is a worn-out synchronizer ring which helps to synchronize gear speeds when shifting. Another reason could be a damaged hub sleeve or issues with the clutch system, such as a malfunctioning hydraulic system or low clutch fluid.
What Makes a Gearbox Hard to Shift When Warm?
A gearbox can become hard to shift when warm due to increased friction between the gears. This can be caused by low or degraded transmission fluid, which loses its effectiveness in providing proper lubrication as it heats up. It can also be caused by worn-out or damaged components within the transmission, like gears or synchronizers.
How Can Cold Weather Affect Shifting in Manual Cars?
Cold weather can impact shifting in manual cars because low temperatures can cause transmission fluid to thicken, making it less effective as a lubricant. This can lead to increased friction and difficulty in shifting gears.
Also, cold weather can cause parts of the clutch system to contract, creating potential issues with engagement and disengagement.
Why Is the Shifter Stiff When Changing Gears?
A stiff shifter can be caused by various factors. One common reason is a lack of lubrication in the shift linkage, which can be resolved by applying a proper lubricant. Another possibility is a damaged or misaligned shifter cable, which can cause stiffness and difficulty in changing gears.
In addition, problems within the transmission itself, like a worn-out synchronizer or damaged gears, can also lead to a stiff shifter.
Can Low Engine Oil Cause Hard Shifting?
Low engine oil typically does not directly cause hard shifting in a manual transmission. However, it can lead to other issues within the engine that may indirectly affect the way your car shifts.
For example, if the engine oil level is low and causing inadequate lubrication, it can lead to increased wear on internal engine components and potential damage. This, in turn, can contribute to poor performance and shifting difficulties.
He’s known for his attention to detail and problem-solving skills and enjoys coming up with out-of-the box solutions when the situation requires it.
When he's not troubleshooting customers' cars, you'll most likely find him working on his current project ('96 Bronco) or cooking Italian food for his family.
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I have a toyota muscle 2007 I had a noise coming out from Gear. and later it hard to shift the gear to drive but after a while the gear will swift to drive again. What really happen
Hi, I have an Fs5w71c transmission that is rebuilt. I have no issues shifting in higher RPM but its not somooth shifting in 1,2 and 3rd at low RPM. Any thoughts? New Synchro’s are in. Thanks
Fluid is a Motorex 75w/90
Hi my Vauxhall vivaro 6 speed manual, has 150k on the clock, but had recent engine change and new clutch, it runs very well, but a few times recently, I’ve had real difficulty getting it out of 2nd into 3rd. It moves easily through 1st and 2nd but will not go into the higher gears at all unless I bang it hard sideways with my hand, then once it goes in it’s fine through the box. And this may not happen again for days. …Thanks in advance.Steve.
This is a hydraulic clutch system, correct? I would try bleeding the clutch and see if the issue persists.
I would also verify that the clutch pedal is adjusted correctly. Many times when you replace a clutch, it warrants adjustment of the clutch pedal to prevent the clutch from dragging. Clutch drag is when you are unable to fully disengage the clutch, even when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This can make it pretty difficult to go into gear.
Here is one way to test for clutch drag: on a level surface, fully depress the clutch pedal. Shift into first, and see if the car moves while the clutch pedal is depressed fully. Next, repeat the process while revving the car up a little bit (2-3k RPM). If you get any forward movement from the vehicle, your clutch may be dragging. Your vehicle should remain stationary throughout the test.
Hi I have a 2000 Toyota select a GTS my transmission I don’t hear any noises but when I 1st gear it takes off just fine as soon as I go to put it in a second I have to force it in there and sometimes I’ll go and I’ll just pop out of gear almost like it won’t pop in well it’s stopped even going into the gym at all now so I would just go from 1st 3rd but now third’s going out or doing that it’s almost like it’s just not popping in the gear all the way Can anybody help me
I’m assuming you meant “2000 Toyota Celica GTS manual transmission”?
Check your shifter cable to make sure nothing is going on with the linkage. If that looks OK you might have to drop the transmission, but have someone take a look at it in person so you know for sure before you go to all that trouble.
HI there
I have a Kia picanto M.T model 2014 and its been a day that at night time i experienced grinding noise while applying reverse gear it happened 5-6 times then when i apply 3rd gear the gear shifting appears to be slightly more hard than previous what can be the problem and do I need to worry over this ?
I would get it addressed so it doesn’t get worse. You don’t want to get to a point where you can’t get the car into gear.
Hi i have renault clio dynamique 2010,and the gear seems to get stuck from going from 1-2.seems to change gear fine when parked?
Any ideas?
When you say it gets stuck, do you mean you’re stuck in first and can’t get it out of gear? Are you having problems getting it to go into gear from neutral?
Hi Sean. Thanks for the reply. Yes it is easier to get into first gear after going to second gear. Also double clutching can also help get back into first gear.
Yeah, sounds like it might be a worn synchro or maybe even the synchro design from the factory. Some cars are tricky to get into first in some driving conditions (such as weather or transmission temperature). Do other A4 owners experience this issue?
To be perfectly honest if it were my car, I would probably just deal with it and do the second-first shift every time I needed to get the car moving, unless the issue got worse over time. If the car’s under warranty, you could stop by the dealership to see what they have to say about it. If this is a common customer complaint, there is probably a technical service bulletin (TSB) out for the issue.
As an aside, most cars will lock you out of first if you are moving faster than like 2 mph, so if that’s what you’re experiencing it’s pretty normal.
Hi I have a problem with my car in the morning when is cold it doesn’t want to shift gears but if I double clutch it does shift ..buh during the day when the engine is warm the gears are fine ..is just the clutch pedal is so soft or can say loose..
Try bleeding the clutch system. Perhaps there is air in the lines. When is the last time the manual transmission fluid was replaced? Sometimes that also helps.
Either way, some gearboxes just take a little while to warm up. Most manual transmissions don’t shift as nicely or easily when they are cold.
Hi there. I have a 2017 Audi A4 manual transmission with only 45,000km on the clock. I am having some problems getting it into first gear. It mostly happens when I stop at a red light on the way to work which is only a short 30 min journey. All other gears are fine. Only first gear and it is intermittent, so not happening all the time. Any ideas what this could be please? Thank you in advance.
Could be the synchros. Is it easier to get into first gear when you go to second, then first?
I have a 96 Mustang GT With a manual transmission I changed the transmission fluid put it back togather now I have to force it into 1&2 not so much 3&4 but in neutral my shifter falls to the right I put the cup back on the bottom of shifter never had prob previously. Does anybody know what the problem could be?
Do those have a direct linkage, or are they cable shifters? I would check the shifter linkage to see if something got bumped or put back together incorrectly after the maintenance.
Are you running gear oil that has the factory recommended viscosity?
Hi, I have a 2007 Audi S5 manual 6 speed car, and recently experienced difficulty getting the car to engage into reverse and gear 1 after 30 minutes of driving, the rest of the gears are fine. I have had the gear linkages replaced 2 years ago which solved the problem but now has come back. A different mechanic now says its the clutch that needs replacing but i’m not convinced as it appears to be showing the same syptoms as when the gear linkages were replaced. Can you advise?
When the car is warm, is it easier to shift into first after shifting to second, then first?
Perhaps the gear linkages were the problem, but something is causing the gear linkages to wear out very quickly.
Hi I am keen to find out what the problem was in the end as my Astra 02 convertible when driving it for a while and it’s got hot it is hard to get into gear then I can’t and have to pull over and wait 10-30 min for it to cool then I can drive again ( Also if put in reverse it will grind ) I first had oil changed in gearbox then had gearbox changed but was a 2nd hand one guaranteed from Vauxhall breakers but after I expected it to be smoother but felt the same and a couple of times it seemed stiff still but don’t drive much then yesterday it did same thing again and they said they definitely changed gearbox !? I also had new clutch in it 3 1/2 years ago and have only done 6,300 miles since ? I dropped car at garage earlier but they said the faulty gearbox may of messed up the clutch !? I can’t afford to play trial and error and also have been told that it’s standard procedure to check clutch when you change gearbox !!?
Yes, typically the clutch is inspected while the transmission is out of a car.
My Honda Civic 2005 Manual Trans.
Issue is: I have hard time shifting to gears most of the time specially 1st, 2nd gear and reverse gear. the 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are bitting well, but not that very smooth compared to other cars. Sometimes when it wont get into 1st gear, I have to put it back to neutral, wiggle it left and right hard and put into 1st or 2nd gear and it will bite. And you can feel that i’s not properly snug fit to gears although it can drive you will feel that it’s not 100% engaged. And the 1st gear has a vibration as you move car slowly forward and vibration decreased as it goes to higher gears. When it’s on speed there is no problem, but you will feel thugs on slow speed specially at low gears. and when changing gears is not smooth, like it’s always like a poor revmatching effect that you have to feel some torque brake effect always down downshifting.
I already replaced with brand new Clutch kits and flywheel, but shifting to gears is not solve. I have all 4 motor mounts replaced, changed strut mounts also. When I press clutch, it press and goes back in like normal, and I don’t see any leaks as the fluid reservoir is always the same level. I replaced the transmission fluid, but does nothing.
What should I do? I have read online about, input shaft bearing, or clutch master, or syncho issues and stuff, but I don’t read any specific blog that perfectly describe my issues.
I’m not sure. If you don’t have anything obvious wrong with the shifter linkage, it sounds like the issue may be internal to the transmission. One thing you could try is picking up a used transmission from a salvage yard, swapping it in, and see if that fixes the problem. Otherwise, you may need to look into a transmission rebuild to repair the unit you already have.
Hi i drive a chev spark – 2011. i have trouble going into 1 gear — i have to try 2x before it engages. all other gears are working perfect and also this problem is seldom – does not happen all the time. at times all gears are working fine with no hassle.
Are you able to get it into gear easier if you shift in to second, then into first?
I have a 2003 Toyota Celica GT. Its hard to shift into reverse and when i shift gears and let off the clutch the car jerks and results in a very unsmooth shift sometimes i hold the clutch for a second after shifting and give a bit of gas before letting off the clutch but i feel like im ruining my clutch and transmission. Its been bothering me because i absolutely love this car but i dont want to get ripped off and end up paying big $$$ for maintenance i do not need. Someone help!!!!
If you let off the clutch in first gear the same way, is it buttery smooth or do you still have a bit of jerking?
One thing you could try is have a friend who has been driving stick for a while try it out and see what they think. This is one of those times where you’ll really only be able to tell if there’s a problem if you can try it out in person.
I have a 2011 Passat 2.0 diesel can’t get it in to 1 2 5 and reverse but drives and run in 3 and changes into 4th fine clutch peddle is very soft and stays down tho
I’m not sure. It sounds like it may be a problem with the shifter linkage, perhaps something isn’t lining up quite right.
I have a mazda MX5 ICON 2005 3rd and 4th gear is not engaging 1st, 2nd and 5th no problem at all help please
Does it have an automatic or a manual transmission?
I got a Vauxhall zafira sometime won’t go into gears when driving some days it’s fine reserve sometimes grinds also there a squeaky when driving anyone please help me tuck garage they said can’t find out wrong
i have a isuzu dmax 2008. it wont shift to L, PRND32 are all working. when i shift to L it wont engage instead it goes back to 2.
Hello
I’m leaving here my problem .
Seat ibiza 2009 1,9 tdi Diesel , changes the gearbox oil 6 weeks ago , problems getting into 5th.
Went to the mechanic , he drove the car saying it feels fine . But the next day it happened again. When driving in 4th , fine , when I want to switch to 5th its like all of a sudden the gear rod encounters some kind of blockage and then it’s going into 3rd. The only times when worked in 5th is when I need to give it a hard hit just to overcome that blockage .
What can it be ?
Thank you
I wouldn’t force anything or you could end up making it worse. Does double clutching help? It might be the synchros.
If the mechanic drove it fine, find out if he was driving any differently than you have been.
My 2006 mazda 6 3.0 manual transmission. The clutch goes to the floor and then I have to use my foot to bring it to the top again and it make a screeching sound when pressure is on the clutch and it doesn’t get into gear period. What is the problem and what parts are needed to get on the road again
First, make sure you have enough clutch fluid and that you’ve bled the system. If you have low clutch fluid, you likely have a leak. Figure out where that leak is coming from before going any further.
Sometimes when the clutch master and slave cylinders go bad, they start to leak. A master cylinder may leak internally where you won’t see any clutch fluid in the engine bay.
This happened on my Mazda MX-5. One day driving to work I found myself without any clutch fluid. I tried to pinpoint the leak and didn’t see anything. Since I had recently replaced the slave cylinder and didn’t see any leaks in that area, I ruled that out. I happened to have a replacement clutch master cylinder lying around, so I swapped out the master cylinder (took about 15 minutes). After I replaced the clutch master cylinder and bled the system, the clutch worked perfectly.
If the clutch master and slave cylinders check out, it could be an issue with the clutch assembly itself. Since troubleshooting this would require dropping the transmission, I would check the clutch assembly last.
Hey guys I have a 2003 Nissan XTerra and sometime won’t get out of 3rd and now hard to get into 4th gear.
Anyone had this issue or can help knowing why?
Automatic or manual? If it’s automatic it could be in limp mode. If it’s manual you probably have an issue with one of the internal components, since 3rd and 4th tend to use the same collar.
Ford fiesta 2006 manual, when the car gets heated approximately after 30 minute of driving, gears become more and more harder to shift, while when the car starts they shift smoothly. The transmission oil’s level and quality is fine.
Have you verified that you are running the factory recommended viscosity of gear oil?
Hey guys if the gears doesn’t go in reverse;gear1 and 2 what’s going someone please help me
Make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly and that you have enough fluid in the clutch master cylinder (assuming you have a hydraulic clutch system). I would bleed the clutch system to make sure there’s no air in the lines. If your fluid level is low, you may need a new clutch master or slave cylinder.
Am driving a Hyundai Grand i10 when it is moving or idling it doesn’t wanna shift the gear especially from gear one to two and from reverse but when the engine is off it shift all gears smooth without any problem
I have my nissan sunny(2008) manual gear getting harder to shift after few hours in traffic. It gets normal again when the traffic is eased and vehicle starts to move fast.
i have a 2003 kia sorento manual transmission. sometimes i have some trouble in shifting the stick from gear 1,2,3 and reverse gear. the problem is erratic. some days no problems at all, the shifting will be smooth. the clutch pedal sometimes sticks on the flow after depressing it for some time in traffic. could it be a result of low gear oil?
I have a 06 Nissan Sentra speed manual first thru fourth no problem at all but when I try to go into 5th 6th or reverse it’s not there all most like that end of the pattern is not there?????
I have a 03 f150 my engine light came on , so I hooked my code reader to it an there were 3 codes for transmission one was sift solenoid one was clutch solenoid an the other was the other solenoid, so I changed all 3 put new fluid an filter an it still says all 3 or not working an it still has a shutter when you take off an then it catches but will no shift out of 2nd gear an the o/d button on shift lever is blinking , I check to make sure the wire was not pinched seem to be good’
My 1993 corrolla . Some times have problems with change down after high speed or long distances .each time and have tendency of darmaging the clutch once the said above happened.
i replaced clutches on several occasion and even master cylinders but it keep repeating it self after long distance .What could be the couse of having the stiff in gear changes and eventually darmages the clutch often .
Hi I got a 1987 Toyota 2e sprinter…I love it to death…The car had literally no problems until recently when I had trouble shifting down to first gear for even the slowest momentum…gear only goes in when the car comes to a full stop.Mechanics advised me to change the clutch pad despite no issues with the remaining gears…
Got a 56 plate Ford Fiesta Ghia. Car has been sitting idle for about 3 weeks, got in it today, started fine but gear lever is so stiff and needs two hands to get into gear. Once in gear it chugs along fine but it’s too hard to go from 2nd to 3rd gear or 4/5. Any suggestions please
my jetta 5 tsi 2010 model is having a problem with the reverse gear, it hardens when engaged to reverse. after the gear has been engaged it stuck there in such a way that it doesn’t automatically comes back to it normal position when shifting to gear 1. yo have to pull it up forcefully for it to engage gear 1.
My 2011 Subaru Impreza is giving me problems. I just had all the oils and fluids topped off and had an oil change done. I am having an issue though, with my stick shifting. When I go from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th, it takes longer to kick into that speed, and I can hear the RPM’s sounding louder or like they are running too hard. I know I need to take it in and have it looked at, but I was curious to know how much something like this would cost to fix.
Sounds like your clutch may be slipping and on its way out.
Sounds like your clutch is slipping it will need to be replaced costs a lot just guessing around 800
My car honda accord 2005 manual have gear shifting intermittent problem. gear wont shift and very hard specially 1&2 also 3&4 but not hard as 1&2. when engine is off it shift smooth what could be the reason. pls. reply . thanks
Gearbox overhaul if you can afford it.
If not, buy an additive suitable for your gearbox that may help it shift a bit easier. Try this
I have a 2012 nissan frontier with a 5 speed manual. The truck shifter was vibrating and having a hard time staying in 1st gear. I took the transmission out and noticed where the shifter mounts to the transmission that a spring that is held in by the plate is bent over on the top. Is that my problem or what is the problem?
I’d loved to have watched the manual demo, but the man clearing his throat all the time was horrible to listen to. Btw. My Kia Cerato 2007 diesel manual sticks in 1st and 2nd gears, and reverse so I’m trying to figure out which part of the clutch system it could be.
I have a 2009 Nissan Versa 6 speed tranny. I don’t have trouble shifting gears. But when I release the clutch the rpms go up for a second and then it catches. Fluid is full and stuff but what should I do or check.
My Toyota Corolla AE110 5A gear does’t shift to any gear, only when the car engine is switched off and is stationery it shifts gears, what could be the cause?
Hi,
My Kia 2009 Pro’ceed has been acting up too. Mostly 1st and 2nd gear is really difficult to shift. I don’t want to just bring it to a garage for them to automatically say it’s the worst case scenario i.e. most costly.
This isn’t occurring when it’s cold or warm it has been continuous the last month or so.
Any advice on the most likely diagnoses??
Thanks!!
First, check the twin exhaust pipe outlets standing 10-12ft away, if they appear to have shadows of black soot around them like most Ceed’s then there is a good chance you’ve been thrashing the gearbox too hard and have worn out the syncromesh in lower gears.
Second, good luck.
2008 vw jetta 5spd. Gears hard to get to move. …fluid levels ok. But at lt i had trouble getting into 1st gear or even moving it. After 5 min. Car still running. I got it forced into gear n ran smoothly. But gears hard. Im 73. Clutch replaced long ago. Tkng to mech. Pray i get estimate as car runs great when in gear n real quiet….i just got new tires brakes but could it be clutch? When in reverse i have to crumch gears to get it to go bkwards.. Everything wks….gonna get it ckd out monday to see what it is…we had since new. So i pray its not something big. I put 2500 4 sale as is on it. Cars in great condition. Hope to sell as is to someone who will have money to fx it. I need automatic at 73 its busy in orlando. Want to mk life easier….i only have liability n no road service n on linited ss income. I need to mk life easier 4 myself n not worry about car troubles. I live in sr housing. Just need car to see dr n get groc. Dont drive much. Buts been a good car….hope its not transmission..will mech give estimate n tell me what it is?
I’m sorry you’re having issues shifting. It could be something as simple as needing to adjust the shift linkage or a gear fluid change. A dragging clutch is also common for Volkswagens where there is too much slack in the clutch pedal (easy fix). I think it’s great you’re driving a manual at 73 but completely understanding wanting to go to an automatic.
I have a 2005 Jeep tj 6 cylinder I replaced the slave and master slave and still my Jeep will not go into gear when running any advice on what to do next thanks
Just Empty Every Pocket =)
Had a 1998 Pajero that I sold a year ago. It was intermittently difficult to engage 1st or Reverse gear when stationary and especially with a cold engine (fast idling). With the clutch pedal depressed you could notice some drive torque getting to the wheels when you were pushing the gear lever against the synchro while trying to get it into gear.
After checking many things, it is possible it was a clutch fault (#1 on your list), but some symptoms did not fit. The clutch was original (>300,000 km) and so probably worn and would engage near the top of the pedal travel. So it should have been well and truly released with the clutch pedal on the floor. Also, I never noticed any drive torque when I was idling in gear with the clutch pedal depressed.
My guess is that it was due to cause #7, being a worn or damaged pilot bearing where the transmission input shaft sits in the middle of the flywheel. Any torque getting through this bearing tries to rotate the input shaft against the synchro trying to stop it (when the vehicle is stationary).
Is this something that you have observed or am I dreaming ?
Hi so I have a 2006 Mazda rx8 and I’m having a problem shifting gears it won’t go into gears and if I force it in it will grind and the engine will seize but now I’ve changed the clutch, master clutch cylinder, and the slave cylinder but also what I don’t get is when I jack the car up from the back and the wheels are free the gears are able go in without a problem but when I put the e-brake and keep in mind the car is still lifted, the gears won’t go in. It’s only when the wheels are freely rotating is when I’m able to shift but one I put the ebrake or put the car down it won’t go into gear someone please help me
if there’s resistance from the wheels still, then the clutch may not be properly aligned and therefore not disconnecting completely.
Have a 1991 Honda Accord, I was driving it and could not shift gears suddenly. I did notice the clutch pedal sticking. Made it back home and found that the slave cylinder was completely empty. I refilled it with Dot 3 brake fluid and had to pump the clutch pedal several times to get it to even move. That worked for one day, next day still no shifting so we bleed the clutch and was working great. A week later, once again very hard to shift, cylinder is still full. However I did notice fluid underneath the master clutch cylinder. My mechanic has not looked at it but saying could be a total replacement of nearly 1200 bucks. It is a 1991 and I only 2000 bucks for it, I don’t see spending that much. I love my little car and just hoping it is the clutch master cylinder, I believe I could replace it myself. Any thoughts ? I would be grateful.
First thing you should do is fire your mechanic, preferably out of a cannon over shark infested waters. Second, go on YouTube and watch some clutch replacement vids specific to your car. There are probably a hundred of them as that was a popular model if afterwards you think your capable of doing it then it would seem to me you just found yourself an honest mechanic. And if any other issues come up then remember YouTube has tutorials for almost everything and is a great resource in times of needing solutions to problems. Good luck my ninja, I hope this helps.
Everyone on here worried what there car is worth and if it’s worth it to spend money to fix it, I think its funny because just because kbb says it’s worth 2000 or even less doesnt mean anything, all brand new high quality tires are alone going to run over a 1k. Kbb doesn’t create the value of your car, I have a 2000 Buick regal doesn’t say its worth much but I have hundreds of hours in labor and 1000s in upgraded parts. I can expect 1/5 return on my labor and cost combined if I were to sell it.
1/5 my expense would still be 5x more than kbb and theres obvious reasons for that. Dont just rely on those appraisal sites like kbb to make a decision on fixing something. If you love your car why not spend the money
Triton 2009
Really hard to shift to 1 and 2? Mechanic fixes the clutch slave but still not doing anything 😫
Its Hard to shift when it’s cold engine but after a while it will become a little easier to shift.
2002 Honda Accord EX with a 5 speed manual. I have noticed the last few days that many times when shifting from 1st to 2nd it almost feel like it’s slipping, then this morning I had to force the thing into 4th gear on two different occasions. I am not sure what’s going on. Any thoughts? The KBB on this old thing is less than $800 so I am trying to get an idea if this is going to be worth the cost to fix it…I’m afraid the answer will be no…
Just wanted to throw this out there. Our 1999 Ford ranger was almost dry as a bone with brake fluid. There was a small leak from the hose to the reservoir. Put a clamp on, filled it up, shifts great.
My 4 by 4 colt 2001 while i was driving it just automatically stopped engaging gear and it start to drive by small gear lever and it could not go to reverse.I want to know what is the problem and causes.
why is that only when changing gear from 4th to 3rd gear is hard to shift. what should i do.
most possible 3rd synchronizer ring worn out
My car is a peugeot 207 when engine is off gear stick goes in easy but when engine is on it won’t especially first gear what is wrong with it
97 isuzu rodeo 5 speed manual. Drove to work fine, left work, started engine, pulled up 20 ft, changed into 2nd gear, car knocked off, after that car will not go into gear. Drove home in 2nd. Changed clutch slave cyclinder. Clutch is fine. I dont know Whats else it is? Please advise. Not worth putting alot of money into
you mean the gear cannot shift from 2nd to 3rd?