8 Symptoms of a Bad Motor Mount (and Replacement Cost)
A vehicle’s engine produces a lot of vibration when running. Without specific components called motor mounts (or engine mounts), the vibration would transmit to the entire car and make it very uncomfortable its occupants.
Learning to recognize the symptoms of a bad motor mount quickly will save you a lot of trouble in the long run. While the cost of engine mount replacement isn’t cheap, ignoring it can end up being a lot more expensive.
Bad Engine Mount Symptoms
Motor mounts secure your engine while absorbing its vibrations. When they start to fail, they typically show several warning signs that can help you catch problems early.
#1 – Excessive Vibration
One of the earliest and most noticeable signs of failing motor mounts is increased vibration throughout your vehicle. You may feel this through your steering wheel, seats, or floorboard (particularly at idle).
These vibrations and shaking often become more intense when accelerating or when the engine is under load. While some vehicle vibration is normal due to all the moving parts within an engine, a properly working motor mount should minimize these sensations.
If you notice your car suddenly vibrating more than normal or if the vibration changes intensity at different engine speeds (RPM), this strongly suggests at least one motor mount is failing.
#2 – Impact Noises From the Engine Bay
It’s common to hear various clunking, banging, or knocking sounds coming from the engine area with motor mount failure. These noises are typically most noticeable during normal movement of the engine (such as when accelerating, braking, or shifting gears).
This happens because worn mounts allow excessive engine movement, causing it to shift and bump against other components. Engines are designed with a certain amount of buffer space are components. Bad motor mounts often causes the engine to move beyond that buffer space.
These types of sounds may be particularly loud when starting the car, or when driving on rough roads where the engine movement is more pronounced.
#3 – Engine Movement During Startup and Shutdown
Starting and stopping your engine creates significant torque, which normally should be controlled by your motor mounts. When these mounts are failing, you’ll notice excessive engine movement (referred to as “engine rocking”), particularly during startup and shutdown.
To see this in action, open your hood and watch the engine while someone else starts the engine. This movement can sometimes occur shifting between Drive and Park, or when quickly pressing and releasing the gas pedal (revving the engine).
While a small amount of movement is normal, anything more than about an inch of movement in any direction indicates mount problems.
#4 – RPM-Dependent Vibrations
Different engine speeds create different vibration patterns, and worn motor mounts often reveal themselves through vibrations that occur at specific RPM ranges.
You might notice the vibration is particularly strong between 800-1200 RPM (idle speed or slightly above), or becomes more intense around 2000-3000 RPM during acceleration. These vibrations might seem to come and go as you drive, directly corresponding to your engine speed.
Pay attention to whether the intensity changes when you’re accelerating versus maintaining a steady speed, as this variation is a pretty good sign of mount issues.
#5 – Engine Sagging or Tilted
A noticeable sag or tilt of the engine to one side is another sign that you have a motor mount issue. This misalignment might be visible when looking at your engine bay, but it can also show up as uneven gaps around your hood or fenders. It not only looks strange, but this misalignment can cause strain on belts, hoses, and electrical connections.
When examining your engine, check if it sits level and if all the mounting points appear to be at the same height. Any noticeable drooping or tilting, especially on one side, is a dead giveaway for mount failure.
This symptom often appears gradually but becomes worse over time. If one mount fails, the others will have to support additional weight and a chain reaction will soon follow.
#6 – Transmission Shifting Problems
Bad motor mounts can affect your transmission by allowing excessive engine movement that disrupts the precise alignment needed for smooth shifting. Harder shifts, delayed engagement when putting the vehicle in gear, or clunking sounds during gear changes can all be a result.
This happens because the engine and transmission need to be properly aligned for the transmission to shift correctly. If you notice these symptoms along with other mount-related issues, the shifting problems are likely being caused or made worse by failed motor mounts rather than an action problem with the transmission.
While troubleshooting may be much more difficult, failed motor mounts are a much better diagnosis than a major transmission issue.
Related: 5 Signs of Transmission Mount Failure
#7 – Squeaking or Rubber Noises
A distinctive squeaking or rubber-on-rubber noise can indicate deteriorating motor mounts, particularly if they’re the rubber type rather than hydraulic. These sounds often occur when you accelerate or brake, or when shifting between Drive and Reverse.
The noise happens because the rubber components within the mount have started to break down and separate, allowing surfaces to rub against each other that shouldn’t be in contact. This squeaking is often more noticeable in cold weather when rubber components are less flexible, and it often gets louder as the mounts continue to deteriorate.
#8 – Component Damage in Engine Bay
In severe cases of motor mount failure, you might notice damage to various engine bay components. This is sometimes the result of of our #2 symptom (Impact Noises) above.
This can include worn or damaged radiator hoses, frayed belts, stressed electrical connections, or marks where the engine has contacted other parts. The most common areas to check are around the radiator fan shroud, belt areas, and any places where hoses or wires connect to the engine.
Look for signs of rubbing, unusual wear patterns, or broken clips and brackets. This type of damage indicates that the engine has been moving excessively and needs immediate attention.
Motor Mount Replacement Cost
Best places to order parts? See: 19 Best Online Auto Parts Stores
Motor mount replacement costs vary significantly based on your vehicle make, model, and where you have the work done. Labor typically makes up the majority of the expense since accessing motor mounts often requires lifting the engine and removing other components.
Here’s what you can expect to pay:
- Parts Cost – Motor mounts themselves generally run between $75 to $200 each. OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) mounts are usually more expensive than aftermarket options, but their quality and fit are usually more reliable.
- Labor Cost – Due to the complex nature of the job, labor charges range from $300 to $600. Some luxury or hard-to-service vehicles might cost even more due to their design and the extra time needed to access the mounts.
- Total Cost – For a single motor mount replacement, expect to pay between $375 to $800. However, mechanics often recommend replacing mounts in pairs or sets since they typically wear at similar rates. A complete set of mounts could cost $1,000 to $1,600 including labor.
Remember that these prices can vary based on your location and chosen repair shop. Dealerships within a major city are typically going to have the highest rates while independent shops in the suburbs or rural areas will be lower.
In some cases, diagnostic fees may apply if you’re unsure which mounts need replacement. While it might be tempting to choose the cheapest option, investing in quality parts can prevent premature failure and the need for repeated repairs.
Read Also: Strut Mount Replacement Cost
Common Causes of Engine Mount Failure
Age and Normal Wear
Motor mounts naturally deteriorate over time and mileage. The rubber components lose elasticity, and hydraulic mounts can develop leaks. Most mounts last 5-10 years (60k to 120k miles) under normal conditions, though this varies by vehicle.
Oil Contamination
When engine oil leaks onto rubber mounts, it causes them to break down prematurely. Even small, slow leaks significantly speed up deterioration as the rubber becomes saturated and loses its cushioning ability.
Aggressive Driving
Hard acceleration, sudden braking, and aggressive cornering create excessive stress on motor mounts. Engine modifications that increase power output can also overwhelm stock mounts, leading to early failure.
Impact Damage
Hitting curbs, deep potholes, or road debris can crack or break motor mounts. This typically affects the metal brackets rather than the rubber components. Even minor impacts can create cracks that worsen over time.
Environmental Factors
Extreme temperatures and road salt accelerate mount deterioration. Cold weather makes rubber brittle and prone to cracking, while heat causes deformation. Corrosive materials can weaken the metal components.
Can I Drive with a Bad Motor Mount?
No, you shouldn’t drive with a worn or damaged motor mount, even though your car may still operate. Bad motor mounts create a cascade of problems that get worse over time.
The excessive engine movement stresses your remaining good mounts and can damage critical components like belts, hoses, and wiring harnesses. In severe cases, a completely broken mount could allow your engine to shift dramatically during braking or acceleration, potentially causing serious damage or affecting vehicle control.
If you must drive to a repair shop or get home, keep your speed moderate, avoid sudden movements (EASY on the gas and brake pedals), and take the shortest safe route to get to your destination. But it’s important to get it fixed as soon as possible to avoid the potential of more serious issues (and expenses).
How a Motor Mount Works (and Types)
Motor mounts are essential components that secure your engine to your vehicle’s frame or subframe. Most vehicles use three to four mounts for the engine, plus additional mounts for the transmission.
These mounts serve two main functions: they hold the engine firmly in place and reduce vibrations throughout your vehicle.
The basic design of a motor mount consists of two metal brackets connected by a cushioning center section. This design prevents metal-to-metal contact between your engine and frame, significantly reducing the transfer of engine vibrations to your vehicle’s body and passenger compartment.
Common Types of Motor Mounts
Conventional Rubber Mounts
The most basic and common type of motor mount uses solid rubber as the cushioning material. These mounts are durable, cost-effective, and work well for most daily drivers. While they’re the simplest option, they typically need replacement sooner than other types and may transfer more vibration to the cabin.
Hydraulic Mounts
Found in many modern vehicles, hydraulic mounts contain fluid-filled chambers that provide superior vibration dampening. These mounts adjust to different engine loads and speeds, offering better performance than conventional rubber mounts. While more expensive, they typically last longer and provide a more comfortable driving experience.
Active Motor Mounts
Used primarily in luxury and high-performance vehicles, active mounts contain electronic sensors and controls that adjust mount stiffness based on driving conditions. They can firm up during aggressive driving for better handling or soften during idle for maximum comfort. These are the most expensive type but offer the best performance.
Hybrid Mounts
These mounts combine features of both rubber and hydraulic designs, offering a middle-ground solution. They typically use both rubber cushioning and fluid chambers, providing better vibration control than conventional rubber mounts while being more affordable than fully hydraulic options.
Without properly functioning motor mounts, engine vibrations would transfer directly to your vehicle’s frame, potentially causing damage to components and creating an uncomfortably rough ride. The mounts also prevent your engine from shifting during acceleration, braking, and cornering, which helps maintain proper alignment of belts, hoses, and electrical connections.
See Also: Reasons Your Car Shakes When Accelerating
He’s known for his attention to detail and problem-solving skills and enjoys coming up with out-of-the box solutions when the situation requires it.
When he's not troubleshooting customers' cars, you'll most likely find him working on his current project ('96 Bronco) or cooking Italian food for his family.
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Just got brand new tires and an alignment and now I have noticed that if I accelerate quickly a vibrating noise is coming from the front end, it sounds like from the engine area. I have a 2008 Honda Civic hybrid. Could this be the engine mount is off and it’s more noticeable since the rest of the car is now aligned properly? It doesn’t vibrate if I accelerate slowly, only if I press the gas decently hard to accelerate quickly. I don’t notice any noise when braking either and I never noticed this noise prior to the new tires and alignment. It doesn’t seem to be coming from any of my tires, it’s coming from the front end under the hood. I’m worried to keep driving the car, it seems fine other than the slight noise it makes but I don’t want to damage anything further if there’s an issue. Should it be safe to drive if I’m slow and careful? I just started a new job today and I don’t know how soon the shop can get me in with my new work schedule.
I would check to make sure the alignment shop tightened down all the eccentric bolts and tie rods. It sounds like something was overlooked during the alignment process.
Can’t say if it’s safe for sure, so use your best judgment there. I’d get it checked out by the original shop ASAP.
My 2001 Toyota Camry has a noticeable vibration when in park. It increases when the AC is on and in park. Once I put it in drive and start driving, I’m not sure if it goes away or I’m just not able to feel. I can feel it while idling at stop sign/light. Does that sound like motor mounts and should I drive it in this condition for long? I’ve changed the intake valves.
Could be a motor mount. That was my first thought when I read the symptoms. It’d be best to get the car checked out when you can.
Have a 2004 Toyota Camry, with the 24 valve V6. When turning to go around a curve or turn on to another roadway there’s a vibration that begins while turning in the right side. Once you complete turn vibration goes away, it does not happen when you make a left-hand turn, could this be a motor or transmission mount allowing extra vibration to transfer to the front passenger tire,
It could be, but I would actually check the wheels and suspension first. Make sure you don’t have a bad ball joint, a loose axle nut, or something like that.
We have a 2016 Subaru Forester. Was recently taken in to replace a ball joint control arm. While there they punctured the boot on the axle and had to replace that as well. Ever since then our car has vibrated, only when accelerating and will pull to the left also only while accelerating. Ive been researching and it sounds like an engine or transmission mount issue since its only when accelerating. First, does this sound correct? Second could this have been damaged while they replaced the control arm and/or front axle? Thank you!
I don’t know. I would take it back to the shop, as it’s possible they made a mistake when they replaced the control arm or axle.
No, that sounds like a failing axle. If they punctured the boot and immediately replaced the boot, while ensuring the correct amount of grease was in there, all would be well…but it sounds to me, given the timing and sudden steering issues, that they failed to address the axle boot.
Hello, We bought a brand wheelchair 2018 conversion van that started to have severe noises that sounded horrific. At times it sounded like heavy duty grinding. We took it to the dealership, and the mechanic told me it was the muffler vibrating, due to the wheelchair conversion. I took it to a shop where the muffler was moved slightly, but the noise continued, even worsened. I took it back to the dealer, where they identified a “tilting’ motor mount. They told us it would not be covered since the van had been converted. We called the conversion company and they said they would have the car picked up and repaired at one of their authorized dealers. We were told to no longer drive the car so they ordered a flatbed tow truck, but the guy from their authorized dealer drove the van to their shop which is a bit of a distance away. My question is what kind of damage should I expect on the engine since we drove it around for about a month since we were told it was only the muffler vibrating?
Not knowing the exact vehicle or problem I can’t say for sure, but if it’s just a loose or noisy motor mount I wouldn’t sweat it. Once the issue is addressed, I wouldn’t expect there to be any further damage.
I have a 2012 Jeep Cherokee. Long story short I have a new Jasper motor installed end of November by a mechanic. In February the dealership repaired all issues surrounding to the mechanic improperly installing the engine and not putting bolts back in my frame. Welding pieces together that they shouldn’t have. I was assured by the dealership that they went over it with a fine tooth comb. Today during inspection and me saying I hear a clunk noise since I picked it up came to tell me my left motor mount is leaking and would cost $800 for them to fix. The truck was driven 1000 miles since their work. Was this missed by then? Could it be that it went bad in the 1000 miles? Were they even touched when the engine was replaced?
Motor mounts secure the engine to the subframe, so yes they were touched when the engine was replaced. It’s hard to say if they missed it or if it started leaking after their inspection. Some vehicles with fluid filled motor mounts are prone to leaking.
Dealership ‘s during most any service inspection do not check engine mounts. I do not believe their is a schedule maintenance interval. Reason why there is no schedule you have no maintenance to perform on them. To tell you the truth 37 years as a Service Director at Dealerships do not recall replacing any unless the vehicle was brought over from our body shop
I am not aware of a scheduled maintenance interval on motor mounts either. However, some vehicles have recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) for motor mount degradation or excessive noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH).
For instance, the 2010-2013 Mazda3 and 2012-2013 Mazda5 had a TSB for a squeaky motor mount, as seen here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10059437-0335.pdf
TSBs are not recalls, but a TSB on motor mounts for a given model will increase the likelihood that both the customer and the dealer would be aware of a possible motor mount issue and wish to have them inspected. Some components with a TSB will be covered under warranty for applicable vehicles once the customer complaint is verified.
I was told my Lexus engine mounts need to be replaced & the car is unsafe to drive. The car was serviced 5,000 miles ago at the Lexus dealer. Could they deteriorate that quickly or would there have been visual indications they were failing? The car has not had vibrations or noises
Why did they tell you they need replacing? Usually it’s pretty obvious when motor mounts are broken or deteriorated to the point of needing immediate replacement. They have done a test (putting foot on brake while giving it some gas) to see if there was too much stretch in them. This would cause the engine move, lift up, or even twist.
You can always take the car to an independent mechanic to have him do a quick look as a second opinion.
A lil over a month ago I bought a 2010 car at a dealership… 2 days after buying the car I had a vibration so I took it to my mechanic to find the ball joints were bad so I had them fixed in which the dealership that sold me the car did pay for, but I still had a slight vibration & just a few days ago it started clunking & I thought it was the struts but the dealership said they put new struts in so today I took it to my mechanic whom said the struts were fine & that the front motor mounts needed to be replaced…. Shouldnt the dealer had to fix such a safety issue before even selling the car?
They absolutely should have if you’re talking about a dealership. An independent used car lot would be different. But whether a dealership is selling a car as-is or labeled as certified pro-owned, they typically do a similar inspection and repair/replace any issues that show up. A failed motor mount would have been pretty obvious during the test drive. There is the possibility the mount simply had a crack in it (where it wasn’t noticed during the inspection) and then failed after you took possession. In either case, it sounds like this dealership is doing its best to fix the issues. If you don’t feel comfortable with the car, you may be able to convince them to take it back although you may need to contact the car manufacturer directly.