5 Symptoms of Engine Immobilizer Problems
A car immobilizer system is a common anti-theft feature in most vehicles produced in the past 20 years or so. When it works like it’s supposed to, it greatly reduces the chances of your car getting stolen.
When problems arise with your car immobilizer, it can cause major headaches. Keep reading to understand how an engine immobilizer works, signs of a malfunction, and how to fix it
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What Is an Engine Immobilizer?
An engine immobilizer system (or car immobilizer) is a great piece of electronic security technology which is basically a vehicle theft deterrent.
Its purpose is to prevent a vehicle from being hot-wired and stolen by a thief who doesn’t have a key to start the engine. Research studies have proven there are 40% fewer car thefts since immobilizers were introduced into cars.
If you’ve purchased a car that was made within the last 20 years, then you’ve probably already used this technology without even realizing it.
The car keys that car dealerships distribute now are basically key fobs or smart keys. That is why the base of the key contains buttons to lock and unlock car doors, open the trunk, or sometimes even remotely start the vehicle.
Many key fobs on newer vehicles don’t even have a physical key attached to the base. You just have to be inside the vehicle with the key fob in order to start the car by way of an Engine Start button.
Main Components
An engine immobilizer system is a security feature that prevents unauthorized access to your car’s engine. It consists of several key components:
Transponder Key or Smart Key – A transponder key or smart key is a special key that contains a microchip. When you insert the key into the ignition, the microchip communicates with your car’s engine control unit (ECU) and sends a unique code. If the code matches, the engine starts. If not, the engine remains immobilized.
Key Fob – A key fob is a device that may double as your transponder key and allows you to lock and unlock your car doors remotely. It uses a battery to function properly, and if it runs out of power or gets lost, you may face problems with your car’s security system.
Immobilizer Module – An immobilizer module is the main brain that communicates with the transponder in your key. It is connected to various sensors and an antenna that helps send and receive signals between your key and the vehicle.
Engine Control Unit – Your car’s engine control unit (ECU) receives signals from the immobilizer module and activates the ignition system if the correct code from the key is received. This collaboration between the immobilizer and the ECU plays a key (pun intended) role in keeping your car secure.
Warning Light – The warning light on your dashboard is an indicator that illuminates when there’s a problem with the immobilizer system. If everything is working right, the light should disappear after a couple of seconds when you turn on the ignition. If it stays lit or starts blinking, there might be an issue with the system.
Car Alarm – A car alarm is often integrated with an engine immobilizer to alert you and others nearby if someone is trying to break into or tamper with your vehicle. It helps add an extra layer of security to your car.
Physical Key – Even though electronic keys have become quite popular, many vehicles still provide a physical key as a backup to unlock your doors or start your vehicle in case of electronic key failure. Don’t forget the importance of your physical key!
How Does a Car Immobilizer Work?
The inside of the key fob contains a transponder chip. When you put the key into the ignition or have the key fob inside the vehicle (for keyless fobs), the transponder chip inside the key fob sends a security code to the car’s immobilizer system.
If this security code matches the code in the immobilizer system, the car will be allowed to start. If the key is not legitimate or there is no key fob or transponder present, the car will not start.
This security code is random each time you start the vehicle and your key is the only source that can generate the correct token for the vehicle.
The good news is that this this electronic immobilization system works very well in preventing car theft and getting your key stuck in the ignition is a thing of the past.
The bad news is that if you lose your key fob or the transponder chip is damaged or goes bad, you’ll need to get a new key from the auto dealership which can be very costly.
Top 5 Symptoms of an Engine Immobilizer System Malfunction
Like anything else that is electronic, an immobilizer system can malfunction and case some problems for you. Here are the 5 most common signs that you can expect to experience if there’s a problem somewhere in your car’s immobilizer system.
#1 – Unlocking Problems
When you use your key to attempt to unlock the doors of your vehicle remotely, the doors don’t unlock. Unfortunately, many modern-day vehicles don’t have keyholes on the outside of the doors, so you cannot open them manually with your key.
This means if you lock the doors from the inside and then close the doors, you won’t be able to get back into your car because your key won’t be able to unlock the doors. At this point, you’d have to call a locksmith to unlock the door.
#2 – Locking Problems
Similar to the last symptom, you probably won’t be able to lock your doors with your smart key if you cannot unlock them either.
Without a working smart key or key fob, the only way you can lock your doors is if you lock them from the inside as the doors are open and then you close the doors. The problem with this is that you risk the chance of leaving your car keys in the vehicle with no way to get them out.
#3 – Engine Does Not Start
A common symptom of a problem with your engine immobilizer is that your vehicle does not start at all. If it weren’t for the problems with the locking mechanisms, there could be a wide variety of reasons why your engine does not start.
But if you experience those problems and have an engine that doesn’t make an attempt to start, then you clearly have a problem with either your immobilizer or the smart key itself.
See Also: Car Starts But Then Dies? Here’s Why
#4 – Key in Ignition Does Not Turn
If your key fob has a physical key that you must insert into the ignition and turn and it doesn’t budge, you may have a problem with the transponder chip inside the key fob base. For some reason it’s not sending the security code to the car immobilizer.
This is often due to water damage (water + electronics don’t mix) or actual breakage of of the chip due to the fob falling or being crushed.
Before ordering a replacement key, make sure you’re using the correct key fob for the car. Just because your spouse drives the same make of car doesn’t mean her key fob will work in yours.
#5 – Car Alarm Problems
Since the immobilizer is the main security feature of your vehicle, that means your factory car alarm system won’t work if the immobilizer is faulty.
See Also: Why is My Car Alarm Going Off Randomly?
How to Fix
Many immobilizer problems can be fixed simply by simply replacing the battery in the key fob. Many transponder keys depend on a small battery to relay the security code to the car immobilizer. Be careful replacing the battery so you don’t accidentally damage the transponder chip inside.
If you’ve replaced the battery and it still doesn’t work, you may have some type of damage to the transponder chip. In this case, you will have to contact your local car dealership and request a new key.
They are not cheap to replace so be prepared to shell out a hundred or even a few hundred dollars for a new key. Usually, the more expensive the vehicle, the more a replacement key fob will cost.
If the actual immobilizer system in the vehicle is to blame, then it could be due to the wires being corroded or damaged. Perhaps the engine control unit or its sensors are malfunctioning or faulty.
These situations would require you to go to a car dealership or auto repair shop that specializes in electronics for further troubleshooting.
FAQs
How Do I Know If My Immobilizer Is Working Properly?
You can check if your immobilizer is working properly by observing your car’s behavior when you start it or when the key is inside the ignition.
If your immobilizer is functioning correctly, you should be able to start your car without any issues. However, if you notice problems starting your car or if the immobilizer warning light on your dashboard comes on, you may have an issue with the system.
Where Is the Immobilizer Located?
Your car’s immobilizer is usually located within the ignition system or the key fob, which contains a transponder chip. This chip communicates with your car’s immobilizer system to allow the engine to start when the correct key is used.
Keep in mind that the specific location of the immobilizer may vary depending on your car’s make and model.
Why Does the Immobilizer Light Keep Blinking?
If the immobilizer light on your dashboard keeps blinking, it’s likely indicating an issue with your immobilizer system or your transponder key. This might mean that the system is not recognizing your key or that there is a problem with the immobilizer itself.
In order to resolve this issue, you may need to replace the key fob, reprogram the transponder key, or consult a professional mechanic for a thorough examination of your immobilizer system.
He’s known for his attention to detail and problem-solving skills and enjoys coming up with out-of-the box solutions when the situation requires it.
When he's not troubleshooting customers' cars, you'll most likely find him working on his current project ('96 Bronco) or cooking Italian food for his family.
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HI Sean,
I have an after market immobilizer and alarm on my 2003 Jeep Liberty. The keyless entry won’t unlock my doors nor will the original keyless entry (which I could use before when the after market was acting up or battery was dead). I was able to open my doors with the ignition key but the jeep still won’t start and no lights when I turn the key. I also noticed the blue immobilizer light wasn’t flashing for the first time either. Pretty sure it’s the immobilizer as it acted up before. I Any ideas how to start my Jeep? Your advice and info is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
What aftermarket system is it? Do they have a troubleshooting section in their user manual?
I think the best thing to do would be to remove the aftermarket system and see if you can start the vehicle normally with the stock setup. If you must have the aftermarket system, you can try adding it back but pay close attention to the installation instructions.
Hi
I have a Hyundai Elantra J2 1.8 1997 which died on the road , we have done the entire engine and replaced the crankshaft sensor, the crankshaft had locked so we skimmed it now it turns but wont start..we done diagnosis and they said it’s the immobilizer as everything else it fine and the computer box shows no other errors now i have the immobilizer chip but it wont start still, what can i do to get it moving?
Are you sure it’s the immobilizer? I would double check your other engine work if there are no errors.
Hi
Go into the car, put the key in the ignition and turn the car on!
you should see on the dash, a shape of a yellow car with a key. then the car will start
If you do not see that car and key shape the car will never start.
And the reason is because the Immobilizer Module is defective.
Hi I have a Chervy spark 2016 model with after market immobilizer. everything was fine until covid in a result of i wasn’t driving a lot. My battery started to be drained and I thought its need a new battery … however the new battey get drained after two days if on driven. took the car for diagnosis they said there are no leackages on the battery they said it could be the tracker unit that is draining the battery. I took off the tracker a month ago but the problem is still there. I don’t know what to do now or should I disconnect this immobilizer. My car is on 46 000Km
Aftermarket stuff can be hard to troubleshoot, but that could definitely be the root cause of the problem if it was installed incorrectly. It sounds like an added system may be causing a parasitic draw when the vehicle is off. You could try removing the aftermarket immobilizer and see if the issue persists.
Other possible solutions are disconnecting the battery (the ground terminal), or using a battery tender if you aren’t going to drive for extended periods of time.
Hi I Kenneth my car was not starting some people were assuming that it might be a starter couple days l started to kick start my car but it wasn’t a good thing to do as l was about to take a starter out the following day same day that afternoon my car started but what l have noticed when l lock my car one side front and rear indicators are not coming on but when l m using hazards are working fine what could be problem
You may have an electrical issue that is both preventing the car from starting and interrupting the signal to the indicators. You’ll have to do some electrical diagnostics to narrow down the problem, because on the surface those two issues don’t seem to be related at all.
I have a Golf 5 2008 fsi ,if cranks but does not start, and if I turn on the key I can see petrol pump works, then if I bypass petrol it starts.
so what is the problem with this?
I’m not sure what you mean by “bypass petrol”, but try to narrow down if it’s an electrical issue like a bad immobilizer or a mechanical issue with the fuel pump or a fuel restriction.
Are you able to get it started by giving it a little gas while you crank it?
I want my next car not to have an immobilizer. Can I find a new car without immobilizer? Car manufacturers, let the police handle the car thieves, don’t make the consumers pay for a feature they don’t like.
My ongoing effort to save money by first isolating immobilizer problem has been educational if nothing else:
I have an intermittent no crank/no start problem on my 2012 Chrysler 200 Limited and because I could always alternately remote start my car but after inserting the key into the ignition killed it, I concluded the immobilizer MAY be defective. My car required 9 hours and a lotttttt of studying videos and posts to disassemble nearly the ENTIRE dashboard to access the ignition switch and immobilizer riding on it. Then the process of trying to locate a locksmith (often suggested) to do the replacement job with a factory new immobilizer was a lesson in futility. Many say they can, but can only read the current immobilizer pin, if you get if for them from the dealer. This allows them to reprogram keys and make them think they can replace an immobilizer without the $3,000 piece of equipment it takes to extract the pin from a new immobilizer, much less update the ECU as well. And just where does that leave the next owner who calls the dealer for the pin? Do they get the old retired one? I placed an ad on Craigslist for a week as a gig for a qualified locksmith to do the job for $200.00 and did NOT get a single reply. However, it took me an inordinate amount of time, stress, inconvenience, trial and error, study and mechanical chores to even know the right questions to ask without a fix yet in sight.
I am even wary of the dealer now who confesses that they can’t specifically test an immobilizer and will still want $88.00 for a diagnostic before replacing the immobilizer with a matching factory new that I bought online. The dealer still quotes $350+ minimum EVEN WITHOUT DASH DISASSEMBLY AND RE-ASSEMBLY! And wait, they want $50 more to use my two new key fob/blanks also. And the final kick in the crotch is that there is still no guarantee of a fix! I have posted this story, including a long list of steps for dashboard disassembly in the 2012 Chrysler forum on reddit. Best of luck to you DIYers when it comes to addressing immobilizer problems when even the pros weep in ignorance.
I bought an old Peugeot 2003 206cc. Electrics kept cutting out while driving, changes the battery, sealed the rear lights as one had water in it, sanded the metal contacts I could get to, dropped IPA into the connectors I could find…..still had the same problem, though backlights for the A/C came back on and everything started running smother. Finally replaced the battery in the keyfob with a high quality one…..no problems since. The car was cleaned within an inch of it’s life by the dealer I bought it off….windows needed silicone greasing to stop the squeak, they had clearly washed the engine and painted a couple of bits of rust, speakers were blown and the radio was knackered. As a total novice going in, I can now do a lot with the car….so failing to do the 1st simple thing led to a greater knowledge. I was surprised the low battery in the keyfob caused a fault while the engine was running, but it obviously did. I was about to work on the ECU (It seems simple enough to refurbish) but I couldn’t see it being the ECU as it’s 17 years old and had obviously not had that fault all the time. Sometimes a £2 battery really is the solution, not tearing the car to pieces.
Sometimes my car get started and sometimes not when if there is rainfall. Engine immobilizer red dot blink continuously when it is rainfall but lock unlock of door functions well by remote key. What will be the problem. Renault Duster, model of 2012
Sounds like what would happen if water got underneath your distributor cap, but I don’t think that car has a distributor. Check to make sure there aren’t any leaks in the engine bay that could flood the ignition system with water.
I have a 2001 mazda tribute and it just died one day and towed it home. Well letting is sit there the battery had died and so I tried to have someone jump me and as soon as I turned the key over the immobilizer system light started flashing really fast so I ended up putting another battery in the car and now when you put the key in it comes on maybe once and dont come on again at all. But the car with still crank trying to start but nothing. I change the fuel filter and you couldnt get any air through it but still I got nothing. Any thoughts?
If your car died while driving, I would address that issue first; that was probably not caused by the immobilizer.
Start with the basics – make sure the engine has air, fuel, spark, and compression. After you’re sure those are good, then start troubleshooting the immobilizer.
Thank you for this fantastic article. I am in Europe and have a 96 VW Golf Cabrio, that I just bought in March of this year. When it was new, the original owner had the dealership install a Texalarm immobilizer. At that time, there was just a fob with a button that talks to the immobilizer, it’s not on the key fob (just a key). Yesterday I pulled into my garage and the car shut down abruptly and wouldn’t restart. The immobilizer light was flashing, meaning it was ‘on’. The car does not have remote unlock, but I tried everything, to no avail. Today I tried the second fob and it works fine. Since Texalarm no longer exists, I can’t get replacement fobs. But I’m now nervous because what if the 2nd one fails, I won’t be able to use the car at all. I will replace the batteries. However I think I will contact an auto electrician to have him either disable, remove or replace this immobilizer with a newer one. It’s more of a hassle than a benefit, if you ask me.
Good thinking. I’m glad you were able to get it working with the second key. If you check the owner’s manual, there may be a way to bypass the immobilizer yourself if it was a factory option (I’ve never heard of Texalarm so I’m not sure).
You could also try replacing the battery on the first key and see if you can start the car with that key again. If so, I might just keep a couple spare batteries on hand and call it a day.
I have a 2011 BMW 328i with a no crank no start issue. It was diagnosed and was told it needed new CAS unit and new ignition switch. Replaced both, had it aligned with the DME and it still is no crank no start. Any ideas what the issue is?
The immobilizer is a good next guess. If the vehicle doesn’t even crank, I wouldn’t suspect the CAS is the cause. Usually a bad crank or cam angle sensor will let it crank because the starter has power, it just won’t start because the ECU can’t tell when it’s supposed to fire the spark plugs.
Please help me with my Hyundai Tucson 2007. For about 3 years now, the ‘immobilizer’ issue is on and off. Sometimes, I could start the engine without any difficulty. At times, the ‘ignition key’ light keeps on blinking and I cannot start. I had to wait for a while and after several attempts, when I reinsert the key, the light stops blinking and the car would start.
Can I just by-pass the immobilizer? How can I do it? I don’t need it. Nobody will steal my car. Beside being old, there are no car theft here in Dubai.
Thanks 🙂
There may be a factory way to disable the immobilizer. See if you can get your hands on a factory service manual, as it will include a way to do this if it is possible to do without physically disconnecting the immobilizer.
I have a 2008 infiniti g35x and the key lose program and I got a locksmith to reprogram and it not accepting the key and I had done it before and it work but something else is wrong what could cause that
I have a Cheryl J11, 2011 which are not longer available here in Australia. No parts or servicers here anymore. My battery is draining overnight. The battery has been replaced and upon further investigation have found the fuse that controls the immobilizer unit is the problem. I now have to pull the fuse when not is use for more than an hour or two. I may be able to get a second hand part but how do I get the code for my car now and for the second hand part. No dealerships in Australia for several years now. Or is there another way to fix the problem. Everything else works fine keys, remote ECT. Thanks
I have a 2016 chevy sonic and the immobilizer light came on and car wont start but my key fob locks and unlocks the doors is this going to cost me alot money if mu warrenty doesnt cover it
It may, depending on the root cause. Before you take it to a shop, check the owner’s manual for troubleshooting advice. It may end up being a simple fix.
I have a chevy spark that cranks but no start..injectors are not supplying fuel. electrician diagnose said no pulse from Ecu took Ecu to get check no error code came up. They said its working fine, we checked continueity on wires and everything is fine somone told me it might be the ke since the car hasnt started for some months, any ideas?
It does sound like an immobilizer issue. Does the key fob battery still have juice?
It means that I should be on right track. No need to over concerns, right?
Thanks.
Ronald
Now, you know my situation.
Due to my vehicle is lower gasoline now. Could I wait 4 weeks or more weeks not to start (idling) the car in order to have no problems of : Starting the engine after the crisis & Engine Immobilizer System is “ON”.
Hoping you understand my question. 🙂
Thanks again.
Ronald
p.s. Your company is the best even Toyota not to reply my concerns!
It’s probably fine, but I don’t know the future. Worst case you just jump start it. If it were me, I would still start it every couple weeks and just let it run for a few minutes. It’s not going to use that much fuel, and starting the vehicle regularly will keep the engine lubricated.
Hi Sean,
Noted.
Thanks!
Ronald
1. Engine Immobilizer System – indicator “on” light flashes could lower the battery?& could not start the engine after how many days without moving (start) the car?
2. Or Engine Immobilizer System has recycling back to battery – without battery usage?
If your car isn’t starting after several days there could be a parasitic drain on the battery. The anti-theft system will have a draw but usually it takes weeks to deplete a healthy battery.
How old is your battery? It might be good to have it tested or replaced. If the battery is new and tests good, try performing a parasitic drain test. Check out EricTheCarGuy for a great how to video on this test.
Due to Covic 19 various Senior(I) need to stay home
My Toyota Corolla 2013 – light flashing when engine is off meaning the system is On.
I start “idling” every 3 weeks – working fine. Just to confirm the Engine Immobilizer System won’t consume the battery power then engine won’t start.
My toyota Corolla 2013 just has only 30,000 km usage (extreme low milage).
Hoping you can advise me.
Thanks.
Ronald
Yeah, that is pretty low mileage. I wouldn’t worry about the immobilizer consuming power. I’ve been running my vehicles once every week or two just up to operating temperature to keep the battery charged. You can also stick the battery on a battery tender if you’re concerned.
I have a 1992 Mercedes Benz 300se almost mint condition and I cant get it to start or crank The alarm on the outsidee of the dooors blinks red I have broke in windows what do i need to do to reset my alarm system
Hi David, check your owner’s manual for more information about your vehicle’s alarm system. You might be able to reset it with a button press from the key fob. If you follow the instructions and your car still won’t start, have the battery tested and check fuses next.
I have audi A4 B6 2003 running for a few seconds and it’s stopped
Wow, I knew about engine immobilizers but had no idea they had such a massive impact on theft, dropped by 40% is huge. The only bad thing about the electronic ones is that if you lose the fob it can cost you a lot to get a new one programmed from the dealership but totally worth it if it can save your car from being stolen. Great post, thanks for sharing!
John Crenshaw
i have a Mitsubishi RVR 2011 with remote start. i can remote stat the rvr but as soon as a touch the brake it stop as usual but now when i push to start , i have immobilizer system service required. did try with the key in the glove box slot, still stop when brake applied but still wont start and when i push to stop and leave they wrote in the dash don’t forget your key. car still at the dealer, they change first ecu computer, same problem, won’t start ,they just call to change another computer.
I have a Toyota passo but the transpond (the key)isnt working since last week nd it’s been problematic for about 3months
I’m asking for contacts details where I get the transpond I want to replace it
its the starters they get hot and wont work again until cooled off
Hi my mobelizer is not working since when i remove the batter from the car when replacing it back then the problem started car is unlocked only problem is alarm siren and is not starting but key can turn the vehicle on pls assist
I have a question. I just had issues with my immobilizer not allowing me to start it. I got the brake code from Acura (2000 Integra) put it in and the car started (with the green key solid) drove it 40 miles to the dealership and made appointment for next day (pain in the arse because I basically had to tell them exactly what I wanted: Immobilizer Brake Code, and then no one but a mechanic that worked there for over 10 years could tell me how to use it). Anyhow, none of my 3 original keys would work before the brake code was entered, however now since using the brake code once, my car starts up normally… with no flashing/solid green keys… just like it did before it was halted by the immobilizer.
Does anyone know why this is, or was it just a strange glitch in the immobilizer system? Thanks
I have a 2014 Honda Fit Hybrid. The key fob can open and close the doors but cannot start the car, not even the ignition light come on. No light at all on the dash board not even the key light. I need advise
Mondeo MK2 1988cc Flashing Key not recognised, Code 13, changed transponder, no start. Will changing ECU possibley cure.
hi i have a city golf 1300 cab 93 year 3 years ago i put in a radio and a immobilizer and an alarm put in and now all of a sudden i am driving and my city golf cuts off you have come to a stand still first put off the engine and then switch it back on and it starts again and off you go for a few mins and then it dose it again .i have replaced the spark cables fule pump return valve carb has been serviced fuel filter has been replaced again the brushes in the alternator as-well been replaced and yet it still does this to me please help its driving me mad
My son has a Nissan Juke. He has lost his key and has tried to code the new key to the vehicle. Follows all instructions and the hazards flash as expected to do so but the car won’t start. Any ideas on what this could be please . Many thanks
Engine immobilizer issues are one of the few times I’ll recommend visiting a dealership.
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi lancer when I go and start my car my doors will lock but car will not start what could it be
My 2007 Ford Explorer will crank up an run fine but as soon as I cut it off it won’t start back until the engine is cool down.
Hi. I have realized I had not moved the transponder from the old fob so thanks anyway.
Hi. The opening button on key fob for my Peugeot 107 broke so i bought a new one and put the old key chip and key part into new case. Although I can still use the lock buttons my car will not start…only turns over. Could removing the key from the chip have severed the ‘contact’ between them? Please can you help. Thanks
Hi, I want to know the location of the ECU immobilizer for Toyota Hiace 2008.
This may help: https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/7e2vm-need-locate-ecu-immobilizer-module-2007-toy-hiace-van.html
A personal experience. Maybe someone out there might have an interest. A have an old Opel Vectra B, gasoline. A couple months back I had problems with the key fob. I couldnt open the doors. A keymaker told me the electronics inside the fob died. Not the small chip. So he suggested I should replace it with new a one. I agreed. I had the security code from earlier when I replaced the ECU. He took some time to programm the new key. From that day on, if I was lucky enough, the car would start in the first attempt. If I would try to turn it off and immediately start it on, it wouldnt do that. Only after 3 to 4 attempts. Even if it would start, sometimes the engine would just die. Like if someone would cut off the gas pump. Today, after reading this site, decided on my one to do something foolish. I took the old electronics and put it back in. The problem was gone instantly. Now…I cant only remotely open the doors. Who cares!!!!
I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra. When I insert the key into the ignition it will not turn at all. The key fob still works to unlock and lock the doors. Could it still be the chip in the key even though it works on the doors?
If it’s physically not turning, it shouldn’t be an immobilizer issue. See this: http://cartreatments.com/car-key-stuck-in-ignition/
My immobilizer light comes on first thing in the morning but if I turned my engine of and restarted the light goes out.
My A4 B8 is not starting showing message on cluster ‘L3 2/2’ previously it was showing ‘SAFE’ but it was cranking, now it does not even crank.
As this is Audi/VW specific, you likely need to take it to the dealer. If you want to attempt troubleshooting, https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/immobilizer-faq-and-troubleshooting-for-vw-and-audi-with-key-replacement-tips/ is a good place to start.
Firstly I drove around on a rainy day and I came back and parked, later that evening the ac fans started to work by itself(the car was parked and car not on) I quickly pressed the unlock button on the key and it stopped, I turned it on for a while so the battery could charge and all, later again that night the headlights turned on by itself I quickly went to start it then I saw a wheel sign on the dash, it later went off and I tried starting it and up till now it still hasn’t worked. These are the codes p1610 p1611 U1001 p0603
once my 2017 hilux 3.0, alarm remote was torn up n I’m sending it to change a new cover for the remote. but I not able to unlock or lock my car after the changed of the cover. another fault is the immobiliser, it triggered the alarm when I try to push the immobiliser at its place. I think the locksmith has do something with it or accidentally swap it with other. how do I know if the immobiliser is belong to my car.
Hi. So, upon erasing 2 admin keys on my Ford, and then adding 2 new ones (I had lost one of the Admins and had to do the whole thing) now, both the keys work fine but every time I use the first key that was programmed it “cycles” the locks closing all then opening all doors once it reaches the ‘on’ position. It is not affecting performance whatsoever, as the doors do lock once I reach about 10 mph. Will I need to go back to the locksmith and re-do this whole process, or is there something I can do to stop the ‘cycling’ my key is doing every time?
Thanks!
You will likely need to take the key to the dealership to have it re-programmed. They should fix their error.
There is this Toyota spider 2010 model that I’m currently working on that has engine immobizer fault.. the amplifier key ring is ok.. the immobizer transponder have been changed . Bt when programmed, the fault will go, but will still return after some time. The key light is also perfectly working.. the car always makes attempt to start bt drops.
When I open car door hazard lights flash 65 times sometimes anti theft system comed up on dash and ssys faulty dosent start sometimes any clues peugeot 607 2lt hdi
I have a Vauxhall tigra, over the last few days the car has been struggling to start or cutting out after starting, but then drives fine when it does start. Took to garage and codes read it is an incorrect key, could this be the reason for the car not starting/cutting out? Had the car a year and never had a problem with key before?
Have a mitsubishi Lancer has problem starting, have been told it is the key, it cranks but doesn’t start,.notice if the engine lights off it will start but if it flashes back on it will not start… also the fan runs loud as soon as key on 1st turn.
Any suggestions
Thanks in advanced
Mine is having the same issues. Did you find an answer for your problem?
Hi want to know if one leaves the ignition in the on position for awhile will it affect the battery from starting?
Yes, the will cause a battery drain on most cars. Some newer cars will detect the drain and automatically shut things down. On pre electronic ignition vehicles (80’s and earlier), you can actually cause damage to internal parts (fuel pump, starter, etc.) by leaving it in the ON position too long.
I have honda vezel RS 2017 Japan domestic model, the key sign warning light is on while driving. The fob immobiliser works fine, open, lock and start etc all are ok.
I went honda dealer, the electrician spent whole day checking all of wires etc. The OEM scanner also don’t show any faults. But the warning light is there.
Since it is a Japanese model so all language is Japanese, which do not help.
My 2002 Altima 2.5 is attempting to crank but there is no spark what do I need to troubleshoot
×our transponder burned up like that
I have a Peugeot 207 2007 and the engine cranks but doesn’t start its showing anti theft faulty my key does open and locks the doors also goes into economy mode after a while do you think it’s the transponder chip? Let me know thanks
That would be my guess. Having a dealership confirm is really the only option when it comes to this.
Im not getting any spark on a nissan sentra 2.0 .. The security light on dash stays on while the key is being turned over
Damage to the transponder inside the key fob is possible. Also, make sure your steering wheel is simply not locked. While turning the key in the ignition, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right. If that doesn’t help, you’ll likely need to visit a local dealership to troubleshoot.
i want to program ecu opel corsa 14
opel corsa 14 bakkie 2007 model
My GMC Canyon will not even turn the engine over. It will crank remotely but when you put the key in it and turn it on it stops. The imobilizer light is on . How do I turn it off?
Do you have a 2nd key you could try (to rule out damage to the key transponder)? Most car manufacturers have a way to “reset” the immobilizer. You will need to contact a dealership or do some Googling online. Here are instructions I found for the Canyon’s cousin, the Chevy Colorado, if you want to try:
1. Attempt to start the truck by turning the key to the Start/Run position. Try to crank the vehicle. 2. Observe that the vehicle fails to start and the security light is illuminated. 3. Release key to the ON/RUN position (not the ACC position or OFF) 4. Allow the vehicle to sit with key in the ON/RUN position for no less than 11 minutes. Security light will turn off after this. 5. When the light goes off, turn key to OFF position and allow the vehicle to remain in the OFF position for no less than 30 seconds. 6. Repeat #1-#5 for four cycles or until vehicle starts.
It’s possible the immobilizer is simply bad and will need replacing.
The mobilize, must turn off soon as you put a key, if not key it lost coding or trandsponder is damage, then key programming is essential
My car is not starting, they have diagnose and they said its mobilizer. It’s crank only not starting. Locking doors and open doors its working.
Please advise
It’s possible since most immobilizers shuts down the fuel pump but still allow spark. Obviously, there are a lot of different reasons for a car cranking but not starting but if “they” have done some basic troubleshooting, the engine immobilizer is definitely a possibility.
My 05 acura tsx went into limp mode all of a sudden awhile back with DTC U0107 (can’t communicate with TAC module).. I’ve noticed since this has been plaguing my car that the alarm sets itself like every few mins.. I didn’t even used to carry the key fob part but had to tear my house apart searching for it after driving it home with the alarm blaring (while also going 10mph due to the limp mode)! I’m curious what the connection is with drive by wire issues and this immobilizer system.. Or whatever it is that has caused me to make sure the key fob is immediately accessible even while trying to diagnose my electronic throttle control prob bc I can just move in the seat wrong and the alarm start blaring. I’ve also had trouble getting the car to go out of park & usually have to do the manual override thing with the key to put the car in neutral & then crank it. Any input will be appreciated! Thx!
We have a 2009 Chevy Cobalt we changed the transmission and now our car won’t start and the transmission won’t roll even when it feels like it shifts out of park
My car does crank but does not start,if is the engine immobilizer were can I get help??
Look in your manual about immobilizer and it should tell you… my acura has a green key emblem that shows up flashing for an activated immobilizer. Your manual should have suggestions that might work, but mine says if green key still flashes contact dealership.
I had to physically go to the dealership with my car registration and picture id to get the immobilizer code that allows you to by pass your immobilizer. It is unique to your vin# and doesn’t cost anything to get from the dealership. If you don’t have AAA it’s also cheaper to have someone drive you to the dealership as opposed to getting your car towed there.
Hi! I have a 2014 Ford Escape with an immobilizer problem. But I can’t locate the immobilizer in the vehicle. Any help on where the immobizer is located will be greatly appreciated!
Mine is plugged right in to the ignition its self 01 Durango
Another tip: on the dash board you may see a symbol of Key outlined with vehicle. if that’s the case. be sure its your immobilizer.
If you always throw your key or let your key falls or worse you give them to the kids to play around with or even pouring water on it. you will definitely have this issue one day.
I have the same problem. BT there is no spark it crank only. And the computer box was not programmed, pls advise
Check your crankshaft sensor
No u need to take to people who can program Ecu
Check on the cluster whether key ir engine light is flashing or not, if flashing then the key need programming
Hi Sakhile I just joined the group and came past your post my 2004 1.6 golf is doing the same thing, I think it the mobiliser it tripped itself and the car doesn’t start only cranks up. Just replaced the battery and my mechanic had just cleaned the injectors, replaced the fuel pump the day before all this started
My car will crank up an run fine but as soon as I cut it off it won’t start back until the engine is cool down I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 and I have replaced spark plugs coils packs cam sensor an crank postition and it’s still doing the same thing
Did you ever find out what was wrong with you’re car. My cats doing the same thing.
My vw car key works manually only.
whats the error report on the dashboard?
I have a 2006 F-350 6.0 diesel when I put it in gear it boggs down and won’t move any tips please
Clogged fuel filter, injectors, not enough oil pressure…need more info
Not sure if you still need help, but it sounds like injectors to me. I had a much older ford that started having the same issue. it would run fine until I let off the clutch to take off, and then it would die all of a sudden. Cleaned the injectors on a hunch and it ended up fixing the problem, apparently they were spraying enough to keep it running in neutral, but not enough to actually drive the truck.
Hi, have a 2008 Suzuki SX4 2.0 Automatic, lately my car unlocks itself without me being in the vicinity, it’s really worrying especially if it happens at shopping malls, what could be the problem causing it, thanks
Change your temperature switch sensor. That is the sign of failing temperature switch, It start when the engine is cold and refuse to start when the engine is hot.
do you have any idea of how much does that cost? I changes the fuel pump, batteries, tuneup, got a new key
The problem is security’s light turn on when I pit key in the hignition
Lol @ ur cats!!!
Gm omg my Chevy Cruze is doing the same thing and now it’s in the shop and I thought it was alternator but the mechanic is saying it has something to do with the key?? I’m so clueless! What happened with yours?
Check fuel pump when hot loose pressure
Hi .please I’m having the same issue with my Nissan altima 2.5. Were you able to find a solution to yours?