6 Symptoms of a Bad Transmission Valve Body (and Replacement Cost)

Last Updated on June 14, 2021

A transmission valve body is a major component of an automatic transmission. It’s essentially a maze-like control center made up of valves, passageways, and solenoids that diverts transmission fluid to where it’s needed for gear changes.

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While not a common part to fail, when you do have some type of malfunction in the transmission valve body, it’s not a simple fix. Your options are either to replace or rebuild it.

Here is how an auto trans valve body works along with common signs and symptoms you may experience when a transmission valve body is bad.

How a Transmission Valve Body Works

All automatic transmission systems have a valve body which serves as the “brain” of the transmission.

There are dozens of various passages and channels within the valve body which direct the flow of pressurized hydraulic fluid to different valves in order to activate the right clutch pack or band and shift to the most appropriate gear based on the current driving situation.

See Also: What Transmission Does My Car Have?

Think of each channel as a tumbler on a lock which has to perfectly line up so transmission fluid is directed where it should.

The valves that make up the valve body each serve a different purpose and their names reflect what they do. For example, the valve body has a 2-3 shift valve which is responsible for up shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear.

And if there’s going to be a downshift from 4th gear to 3rd gear, then the 4-3 shift valve would be responsible for that.


Types of Valve Body

There are two main types of valve body. The first type is the electronic valve body which uses the electronic system ECT (electronic controlled transmission) as its main control to operate all shifting on an automatic transmission.

Many newer cars use this electronically controlled transmission (ECT) which has bands and clutches that are operated via hydraulics.

However, an electric solenoid valve is used to control each hydraulic circuit. This is what allows the transmission to have more elaborate and advanced control schemes than non-electronically controlled transmissions.

The controller of the transmission can monitor the throttle position, vehicle speed, anti-lock braking system, and the engine speed.

The other type of valve body is called the hydraulic valve body. This system works by using hydraulic pressure to control each valve that’s linked to the shifting lever.

When you change the handle’s position, it will uncover and cover certain passages in the valve body to accommodate that position. So, if you were to change the gear lever to “Drive,” then fluid would be directed into the clutch and 1st gear would be activated.

6 Common Symptoms of a Bad Transmission Valve Body

If you have a failing automatic transmission valve body, there are some clear symptoms that you should look out for.

#1 – Harsh or Delayed “Garage Shifts”

car won't go in reverse

One of the most common signs you have a problem with your transmission valve body is a delay (2 or more seconds) or harsh shift when shifting from Park to Drive or Park to Reverse. These are commonly referred to as “garage shifts”.

If you have a problem with only one scenario (example: Park –> Reverse), try to limit the amount of times you’re in that situation even if it means backing into the garage or a parking space each time.

#2 – Incorrect Up or Down Shifting

incorrect transmission shifting

While driving, you may notice that your transmission is shifting into a higher or lower gear at the wrong time.

For instance, you may be going up a hill and even though you want the transmission to shift down to give you more power, it instead shifts into a higher gear making the drive up the hill much more difficult.

In addition, you could be driving a steady 60 MPH on a level highway and your transmission sporadically shifts into either a higher or lower gear for no reason. Any type of erratic shifting can be a symptom of a bad transmission valve body.

#3 – Shift Flares

high RPM tachometer

When everything in your transmission is working correctly, in between every shift the engine RPM should briefly decrease on an up-shift (ie: 3rd to 4th gear) to match up with the higher gear.

A “shift flare” is when the opposite occurs: the engine RPM instead increases on an up-shift.

#4 – Banging or Knocking Sounds

tire noise

If you hear a banging or knocking sound as your gears change while accelerating (up-shifts) or slowing down (down-shifts) or when putting your car into reverse, that may be an indication of a faulty valve body.

#5 – Gear Slippage

poor acceleration

While it could be something else like low transmission fluid or worn transmission bands, when your transmission slips out of gear while driving, it could mean your valve body is going bad.

With a slipping transmission, your vehicle may try to up-shift but then quickly falls into a lower gear. Or it may even refuse to shift into a higher gear which makes your engine run at a higher RPM than usual.

#6 – Check Engine Light On

check engine light

If you experience any of the symptoms above and your check engine or malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) comes on, it’s a good idea to scan your vehicle for stored diagnostic trouble codes.

Since the transmission valve body is responsible for so many functions of the transmission, many transmission related DTC codes can pop up. These may include P0715, P0751, P0783, P0829, P2707, among others.

It is easy to ignore these kinds of symptoms in the beginning because they may not be so bad. But the problems with your valve body will often become more clear when you drive your car continuously for at least 30 minutes and your transmission fully heats up.

If you experience any of these problems, it’s advisable to take your vehicle to an auto repair shop and ask a mechanic for their expert opinion.

Transmission Valve Body Replacement Cost

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transmission valve body replacement cost

Replacing your automatic transmission valve body is no easy task, which means it’s not cheap. For a complete job (parts + labor), expect to pay somewhere in the vicinity of $390 to $860.

Parts alone cost on average $250 to $500 but expect to pay more for certain makes such as Mercedes, Volvo, Porsche, and others. Labor costs for the 2-3 hour job will be around $140 to $360 depending on if you go to an independent mechanic or dealership.

You can slightly reduce your costs by purchasing a re-manufactured valve body assembly if one is available for your vehicle.

Note: Before agreeing on replacing the valve body, make sure the issue is simply not a bad transmission solenoid by getting a second opinion from a different shop. Replacing a transmission solenoid is much cheaper.

Replace vs Rebuild

Some transmission repair shops might offer the option of rebuilding your current valve body instead of replacing with a brand new (or remanufactured) one. This can sometimes save you some money, especially for some higher end cars. But should you do that?

Generally speaking, if you have a higher mileage car (100,000 miles or more), you should simply replace your valve body. For lower mileage cars, rebuilding the current transmission valve body is a fairly good option if you’re dealing with a good transmission shop.


134 thoughts on “6 Symptoms of a Bad Transmission Valve Body (and Replacement Cost)”

  1. Hi,
    I have a 2011 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI, A while back the car was driving fine and suddenly lost drive through the gearbox. It was as if the car is in neutral whilst the gear level was on D. The car is not giving me any fault codes what so ever. I’ve had the gearbox oil and filter replaced together with a gearbox flush. We found a corroded plug on the underside and also found that there’s no oil pressure going through the oil radiator. All but the oil pressure was fixed and the car is still not engaging drive. The control modules also seem to work just fine. What else could cause this issue?

  2. I have a c5 vette 4l60e auto trans. Lost reverse. And 4th.O/d .
    Vehicle had been sitting about a year before making a 400 mile roadtrip.

  3. Hi,

    I was driving on the motorway when my RPM just increased out of nowhere and I received a ‘Transmission Malfunction’ message. Then I went ahead and parked the car at the service station and all was okay when I closed the car and started it again, on the motorway the issue occurred but I controlled the rev’s by taking my foot off the gas and the issue didn’t happen and I didn’t get the orange spanner icon with transmission malfunction message but if I didn’t take my foot off the gas, the issue would have occurred again.

    This issue only occurs on the motorway and happens after 40mins of straight driving at 70mph, when I exceed to about 76-77mph that’s when the issue happens but I need to take my foot off the gas to avoid the transmission from fully failing and giving the ‘malfunction’ message. The revs are stuck on 3.5rpm and I can’t change any gears until I’ve stopped the car at a service stop and restart it again. The car usually stalls when I’m taking the exit to a slip road and braking.

    I have taken the car to a garage where he plugged his computer in and said a valve is stuck but I’m not sure that is the case as he also said ‘your car could completely fail if you take it on the motorway’ – I then drove another 500 miles / 8 hours none stop with no issues as I was controlling the gas quite well and didn’t allow for the transmission to fail.

    I’ve driven 70k-80k miles on the motorway using the car in the span of 10 months last year and haven’t really experienced any issues with the car.

    Any suggestions as to what I can do?

    Many thanks.

    • I think your garage’s assessment is a good one – you are very likely to be stranded if the issue isn’t dealt with soon. Sounds like one of the tiny valves in the valve body is clogged or has failed. You may be looking at a valve body replacement to get it fixed.

      As a sanity check, I would make sure the transmission fluid level is correct. If the transmission fluid looks good, you’re probably going to have to bite the bullet and go in for some transmission work.

  4. Hi,
    I have a 2004 Nissan Pulsar, Automatic.
    Sometimes it drives fine, then other times it will refuse to go into 2nd gear. If I pull over and turn the car off and on again, it fixes it for a little bit. I have no check engine light or any other light come on.

    Took it to my local mechanic, he said he suspects it’s something internal in the transmission, like a solenoid needing to be replaced.. he referred me to a transmission specialist because he wasn’t experienced in transmission repairs.

    Obviously I’m paranoid about it being something worse… particularly since turning the car off and on again temporarily fixes it.. if it was a Solenoid, wouldn’t it have the issue regardless?

    • I agree with your mechanic’s assessment. Before I had finished reading your comment, I was thinking it could be a solenoid in the valve body. He also sounds pretty trustworthy for referring you to a specialist like that.

      Solenoids are both electronic and mechanical devices. Like many failing mechanical parts, they may work intermittently as they start to wear out.

    • My Corolla 2014 developed a problem with the drive shafts. They replaced them without allowing engine cool. it now develop a problem with OBDII code p2829 and am told the valve body solenoid k developed a problem.Do I need to change only the valve body or the whole gear box? The engine check lights came simultaneously with the trc off lights. What could be the reason?

  5. I have Audi A6 and encounter with a message “gear box malfunction but you can continue driving”. I see no issue with gear while driving but I feel less power. Mechanic is saying problem with valve body and need to replace it if it didn’t repair ,or replace the whole gear box. Don’t no what to do as replacing whole gear box is very expensive.

  6. I have a problem in my toyota corolla 2003, when i engage on gear the car will shut down, i try everything, change the tongue converter and also check the air vacuum and airline of the car yet the problem still occurs, pls what could be the possible problem.

    • This is a guess, but perhaps there is a solenoid in the valve body that is malfunctioning and causing the stall when a specific gear is engaged. Have you tried all the forward gears and reverse? Do you have different results with any particular gear?

      • The problem has been solve, it was cause by a valve body, but anytime i put new valve body it will spoil very soon.what is the possible solution.

        • Have you figured out what the failure mode is for the bad valve body? Check to make sure you are using the correct transmission fluid for that vehicle.

  7. F150 with 200k miles – i have a delay of about 2-3 seconds in my 4r70w when shifting into D. I’ve replaced the shift and tcc solenoids, fluid and filter and still have the same problem with no check engine light. Also every once in a while I am not able to go in overdrive it may not downshift properly for a brief moment- doesn’t happen often though. Should the next step be to use a valve body repair kit?

  8. Maybe you can help? I’ve got a nissan murano. After 30 mins of driving normally. I will pull up to trafic lights & when I try to pull away it’s like its stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and is very slow to pull away. Took to garage they said stepper motor? No codes no fix. Thinking of trying a new valve body? Any help ? Ieas? Cheers Steve

  9. I drive a 2017 Chevy Spark with around 67,000 miles. I bought it brand new 5 years ago. I haven’t even finished paying off the loan yet. I drive 8-10 hours per week, taking the interstate to work. For the past month or so, my check engine light will come on, usually during the drive to work when I’m going between 70-80 mph. It will stay on for the drive home. When I get in my car again to go to work the next day, the light is off, only to turn on again next time I’m driving higher speeds on the interstate. I’m not really noticing any issues with the car, other than sometimes if I’m using Cruise Control, my check engine light will kick on and the cruise control will kick off, and I won’t be able to use that function for the rest of the drive. Still, the check engine light was scaring me, as I can’t really afford to get stranded on the interstate and miss work.

    It took weeks for me to be able to get it diagnosed because the light was always off when I had the chance to diagnose it. I got “lucky” and my check engine light was on during a time I was able to go to my dealership. The error message said “Transmission fluid pressure low” and they ended up keeping it overnight to fully diagnose it. The next day they called to tell us that our Valve Body would eventually need to be replaced, and it would cost over $1700 total to replace it. We told them there was no way we could afford that, even the $150 charge for diagnosing the car hurt us. They told us that in their personal opinion, since we aren’t actually having any issues driving the car except for the Check Engine light coming on, it should be safe to drive for now. They essentially told us we should be okay to keep driving it as long as we don’t notice any issues, but that eventually we would need to get the Valve Body replaced.

    When we do get it replaced, we’re definitely looking for a local mechanic rather than going to the dealership, and we’ll be shopping around for the best price. Unless I can find a place that offers payment plans, I may have to open up a credit card for this, which I really don’t want to do. But now I’m going to be constantly worried that my car could break down, or that we could end up making the engine worse the longer we drive it without fixing it.

    It would be really comforting to have some more professional opinions about this, especially knowing that those opinions are coming from people who don’t stand to make any money from our misfortune. Should we bite the bullet and get it fixed as soon as possible, even if it’s really hard on us financially? Or do you think it would be okay to wait longer to try to save up money over time?

    • That’s a tough situation. It sounds like the dealership technician was honest in his assessment. Personally, I would not want to let a low transmission fluid pressure issue go unaddressed for long, as it could ruin the entire transmission. A transmission replacement will likely cost more than a valve body replacement, but there are options that may help you reduce the cost such as sourcing a used transmission from a salvage yard.

      Ultimately, this decision is up to you. You’ll have to weigh the risk of being stranded with a broken transmission against the risk of increased credit card debt. Do know that if you get the valve body replaced at an independent shop, it’ll almost certainly be substantially cheaper than a quote at a dealership.

      In the future, I recommend working up to keep a bit of a buffer in your savings account, in case something comes up unexpectedly with a vehicle (or any other circumstance; life happens).

  10. I drive a 2013 Nissan Altima, after driving it awhile when stopped at a light and ready to take off the car is sluggish no power just creeps, but then it grabs and it goes, it also wont change into the last gear. Any thoughts what it could be?

    • Does the engine speed rise without the car moving faster? This is indicative of a transmission issue.

      Does the car bog when you give it gas, and hesitate or act like it wants to stall? This is indicative of an engine issue.

  11. Hi, I have 2010 expedition with around 230k miles. I’ve lost the overdrive in the transmission, I have the 6R80 transmission and did some research the valve body has 7 solenoids, I replaced the, ‘E’ which I read controls 4th,5th 6th gear…after changing it…it was the same, no change at all. I drive it as a 3 speed….any help would be greatly appreciated

    • Many vehicles have an overdrive button that lets you toggle the overdrive gear on/off. Make sure this isn’t depressed. There is usually a lamp on the dash that tells you when the overdrive off button is pressed but it could have burned out.

      I wonder if this button is broken, or some electrical fault is locking you out of overdrive despite the transmission being perfectly capable of using overdrive.

  12. Hello
    I have a 2010 Elantra that I think has the “Shift Flares” issue. When going from 2 to 3 it would rev for a few seconds then go. Also this happens sometimes when going from 1 to 2. Not sure if that is an issue since I’ve spoken to other Elantra owners who said they experience the same. Can this be fixed? I was thinking of removing the valve body and checking the solder joints and the solenoid but if it was made this way then maybe there is nothing I can do. I checked the OBD but dont see any codes. I purchased this used and did a transmission flush and also replaced the valve cover due to oil in the spark plug. Presently the car has only 100000KM.

    Any ideas on how to fix this would be very great.


    • I am not sure. By “shift flares” do you mean it feels like the clutch is slipping in a manual transmission?

      I’m reading that some people had their transmission serviced or replaced and this resolved the issue. I’m not familiar with these transmissions, so I would defer to a good Hyundai mechanic’s evaluation of the issue.

  13. Hello , I have a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder (CVT) I changed the radiator/cooling fan assembly myself. After changing it , I notice that when in drive the gear automatically moves to neutral. If I hold it in drive it will stay. I have changed the transmission fluid and it’s still the same. Any idea?

    • Those problems really don’t sound related. I think you might have to bring it to a shop to see if they can figure out why it won’t stay in drive.

      Any chance you bumped something important while you were in there?


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