Last Updated on November 30, 2022
In this article, we are going to talk about the ignition coil, so you will know its basic functions, symptoms of a bad ignition coil, how to test, and also the average replacement cost.
How an Ignition Coil Works
Ignition coils are known as compact electrical transformers. Their purpose is to take the low 12-volt current normally found in car batteries and convert it into a much higher voltage which is needed to ignite the fuel and start the engine.
Each spark plug in a car has its own ignition coil. The coil is either physically connected to the spark plug with wires or it sits on top of the spark plug without using wires.
The spark plug needs about 15,000 to 20,000 volts of electricity in order to form an electric spark that can ignite the fuel. If you don’t have strong ignition coils then it will result in weak fuel consumption or engine misfires.
It’s important to note that a troublesome ignition coil can also be related to a low voltage or abnormally high voltage battery. This will also cause a range of other issues with the car and upgrading it to a new battery can see many issues go away.
Many batteries found in older cars can simply breakdown with age and one sign of a bad battery is if it’s not reading at least 12.65 Volts when fully charged, you know there are issues with the battery.
Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Coil
If a vehicle is behaving intermittently and is giving its driver some trouble in a smooth driving, then it could indicate that the ignition coil of that vehicle has gone bad.
The failed or weak ignition coil symptoms may vary depending on the severity of the ignition coil failure. Here are some of the most common signs of bad ignition coil.
#1 – Backfiring
Backfiring caused by your vehicle can indicate the symptoms of the ignition coil failure in its early stages. Car backfiring occurs when the unused fuel in the combustion cylinders of the engine leaves through the exhaust pipe.
If this problem is left unchecked, then it can result in costly repairs. The backfiring problem can usually be detected by the emission of a black smoke through the exhaust pipe. The smell of gasoline in that smoke may also give away the ignition coil failure.
#2 – Poor Fuel Economy
Another sign of a faulty ignition coil is poor fuel economy. If your vehicle is getting noticeably less mileage than it was before, then it could mean that an ignition coil failure has occurred.
#3 – Engine Misfiring
Engine misfiring will be seen in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise.
When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light.
#4 – Vehicle Stalling
Ignition coil failure may also result in the stalling of the vehicle. This can occur because of the irregular sparks sent to the spark plugs by the faulty coil. Your car may shut off completely when brought to a stop leaving you with the trouble of it hopefully restarting.
#5 – Engine Jerking, Rough idling, Poor Power
Another symptom is rough idling of the engine, jerking, and hesitating while accelerating. It will feel like your vehicle is missing some power when driving.
#6 – Check Engine Light On / DTC Code
Often, the check engine light will turn on in your dash. Most commonly, engine code P0351 (Ignition Coil – Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) is what shows up when scanned using a car diagnostic tool.
Scanning for the error code is probably the easiest way to troubleshoot a coil issue, so if you see that check engine light, grab your scan tool or have a repair shop confirm.
#7 – Engine Hard Starting
A hard to start engine is a symptom that will occur especially if your car uses a single coil. If the coil has a malfunction, it means the engine will be cranking without sparks inside the cylinders. At times, it may start but then die right away.
Average Ignition Coil Replacement Cost
The cost of a new ignition coil depends on the make and model of the car. Some coils are as cheap as $75 while others cost in the $300 range. If you have the replacement professionally done then the labor costs will be between $50 and $100 per hour.
Therefore, you can expect to pay at least $150 to $200 if you were to take your car to an automotive repair shop and have them replace your ignition coil for you. If you choose to go to a dealership, expect to pay even more.
Read also: Average Fuel Filter Replacement Costs
How to Test an Ignition Coil
Here are some tips on testing an ignition coil based on whether they are a CNP (Coil-Near-Plug) or COP (Coil-On-Plug).
CNP Coil Type
- To run a test on an ignition coil, first turn off your car’s engine and open up the hood. Remove or pull the spark plug wire from it (if you car uses CNP coils). These wires typically start from the distributor cap and run to the spark plug. Use rubber gloves and insulated tools when working with these electrical components or you may get a nice jolt.
- Now attach the new spark plug to the spark plug wire (new or old spark plug to test coil sparks). Use insulated pliers to hold the spark plug onto some metal part of the engine so that the threaded portion of the spark plug is touching the metal.
- Use a fuse removal tool or needle nose pliers to remove the fuse to the fuel pump to disable it and get ready to crank the engine. You may need an extra person to turn the key in the ignition because you are holding the spark plug down with the pliers.
- Once the engine is cranked, look for blue sparks forming along the spark plug gap. If you see blue sparks then your ignition coil is working properly.
- If you don’t see the sparks or if you see orange sparks then this is a sign of the ignition coil malfunctioning.
- When you’re done with the test, disconnect the spark plug, place it back in its hole, reconnect the spark plug wires to it, and put back the fuel pump fuse.
COP Coil Type
- Start the engine.
- Keeps the engine running at idle speed.
- Open the number 1 ignition coil bolt, and then pull up the coil to see how the engine runs.
If the engine’s condition changes to rough idling, that means the number 1 ignition coil is good. Then you can continue this step with the remaining coils one at a time until you find the culprit. When you pull out a faulty ignition coil, the engine condition/idle should not change.
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101 thoughts on “7 Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Coil and Replacement Cost”
VW Golf station wagon 2004.
About a year ago I was driving my car and the engine light came on, garage stated it was just a faulty heat sensor so replaced it. Not long after I noticed the cigarette lighter wasn’t working, replaced fuse but it still didn’t work. Usually use it for a phone/radio transmitter so wasn’t really a priority to repair. 6 months later had my car put through its yearly road worthy check and a week later noticed rear windscreen wiper not working.
About a month ago it began shaking/misfiring? and had a flashing engine light when driving so I pulled over and turned the engine off to call the garage, when turned back on the engine light had gone off and car was driving fine. Could only get an appointment for nine days later, during this time the light would flash intermittently and shake when doing so, there was no set distance for this, could be after one minute in the car, could be after one hour, it would then reset itself when turned on/off again. Taken to garage and no fault showing, no engine light/shaking. Told to drive it until the light comes on and bring it back.
Happened again – took it in and fault shown as cylinder 4 misfire, multiple cylinder misfire; told to drive again so fault can be isolated if it reoccurs.
Happened again – this time the solid engine light came on immediately after turning the engine on and off and stayed. Took it back and fault showed misfire on cylinder 3 & 4 – suggestion was to replace leads and reset codes, sparks were checked and seemed to be fine – cost $576.
Three days later… SAME THING :/ shaking felt worse than previous times so didn’t bother with any short drives, took it back to garage and parked it up for a week until they could look at it again. The suggestion was that there was no change in the car and to replace coil(s)?! for around another $500 and hope for the best as it’s a process of elimination now.
I’m just wondering if all of these electrical faults could be related somehow and if it’s best to put it in with an auto-electrician next instead of a mechanic? I can’t resell at present as it has a solid engine light as soon as it’s switched on and I can’t afford another parts switch/labour for it not to be resolved again. I appreciate my car is getting old now but just wondering if there is a cheaper option for process of elimination/getting it going.
Sounds like the shop should be doing a bit better job with their diagnostics. You could try switching coils around to see if the misfire follows a particular coil. Sometimes misfires are caused by timing issues, bad head gaskets, or valvetrain issues as well (such as a valve that won’t fully seat). You can test for bad head gaskets and valve issues with a leak down test.
I have a problem with my car ( Golf mk5 1.6fsi)
When it’s humid weather (after heavy rain) car start up then cut off in 2 seconds
If i try again after 2-3 hours car works fine
it’s this coil problem or anything else ?
Have you scanned for codes? What happens if you press on the gas pedal right when you start it up?
Take out an ignition coil providing 20,000 volts, while the car is running?
Nope I wouldn’t recommend it. What are you trying to test?
That’s what is written under the COP testing in the article. Must be a typo.
I have a 2007 GMC Acadia with an code that says multiple cylinder misfire. I have already changed the spark plugs. Just ordered coil packs. Do you think the coil packs will fix the problem. Also there was water in 2 of the cylinders when I went to change the spark plugs. Took the water out. Then the code showed up for the moss fire.
I think it’s unlikely coil packs will fix it. I would figure out why there is water in the cylinders. Could it have been gasoline instead of water?
Excellently writen article! The choice of words are very relatable! I’m ordering new coil right away!
Tx & God bless 🙏
Glad to hear it helped you out Justin!
I notified that one coil is not working. My question is coil can make car lose power on speed.
Yes, a bad coil means that particular cylinder is not burning fuel, reducing engine power and causing a misfire.
I have got two cylinders misfiring and I replaced all spark plugs. The problem exists. I then swap the coils on the faulty cylinder with the one on the good. The misfiring is on the same cylinder.
So it seems not an issue of coil? What else should I check?
Thanks a lot.
Verify the plug gap is correct on the new spark plugs. You could try checking, cleaning, or replacing your fuel injectors (as needed).
Next I would do a compression test to see if you are losing compression somewhere in those two cylinders. If you are, a leak down test will tell you where.
I have an 2004 Mazda mpg that cuts out and dies at about 2000 rpm. It’s always at 2000 rpm when it stalls. It always starts right back up and the service engine light doesn’t come on or store any codes. Replaced coil packs, idle air control valve, mass airflow sensor and oxygen sensors and it still does it. Been to 3 different shops and no one can figure it out. Could it be a faulty computer?
Can you elaborate on what you mean by “cuts out and dies at about 2000 rpm”? Does it die as soon as you rev it up to 2,000 RPM, or when you hold the tachometer there with the throttle?
sorry for late reply. It does it when you drive normally, as soon was it gets to 2000 rpm it skips, motor bangs around and dies. If I drive it like I’m drag racing it doesn’t do it until it hits 5000 rpm.
Have you checked the timing? I wonder if the timing belt is loose or skipped a tooth with the way you say it “bangs around and dies”.
Timing was checked and car was run on diagnostic machine and nothing was found. If I wasn’t disabled and on fixed income I’d have given up by now. After it dies it starts right back up but overdrive is off, headlights and tail lights are barely lit and the airbag light comes on. Thank you for your time answering my questions.
Sounds like an electrical issue like a bad ground somewhere, because these are seemingly unrelated issues. Someone will have to get in there with a multimeter and do some diagnostics to figure out what’s going on.
If you want to try it yourself, grab a wiring diagram for your vehicle and look for common grounding points or sections of the wiring harness shared among the components that are acting up. That may lead you back to a ground or two that is dirty, corroded, or loose.
I’ll try that. Thank you
My Hyundai Tucson Elite is misfiring on cylinder 4. Is it a faulty ignition coil?
Maybe. Misfires can be caused by a number of things so the best course of action is to get the problem diagnosed so you don’t have to waste money throwing a bunch of parts at the problem.
It is a wonderful blog post. Here, I have made a conflict between points 5 and 7. I found it the same. Could you please make me clear?
Engine jerking or rough idle could mean misfires that cause the engine to deliver power unevenly. An engine that is hard to start may crank for a long time before starting, or may fail to start entirely the first few times.
I have a 2011 Chevy Traverse has 126,000 miles on it and when I start it up sometimes it sputters to start like barely no power. Every so often it stalls right after starting, as well as a small pop or tick sound when starting only when started while the engine is hot. No check engine light good fuel pump, alternator and starter are good, had a tune up spark plugs should be good, fluids are good and battery is giving off good voltage.
Any check engine lights? I wouldn’t assume the spark plugs are good. I would start at the ignition system (with the spark plugs) since that’s cheapest and easiest to fix. Assuming the ignition system is good, test the fuel system to make sure you’re getting enough fuel.
that was perfect
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 6.0 k2500 and it starts fine and runs fine for about the first 5 miles then a message comes across saying reduced engine power and starts running really rough and wont accelerate but if you shut the engine off for about 5 minutes it runs fine for about another 5 to 10 miles and starts doing it again! What could be causing this?
It sounds like it’s entering limp mode, which could be caused by a lot of things. See if there are any codes and take it from there.
that was perfect
Can i replace only one faulty ignition coil or must i replace all of them even if the rest are ok?
I would replace them all at once if they are older and you are having an issue with one of them.
Ignition coils often wear with use. The greater the engine speed, the faster the wear. If they are all the same age and one of the coils wore out, I would expect the others to not be far behind.
My 2016 honda odyssey has check engine light p0303 when I driving fast and i changed the spark plug, coil and injector but the problem continues
It could be a leaking or clogged injector. You could try swapping injectors around to see if the misfire follows one specific injector. That would help you narrow it down really fast.
If that doesn’t work, you could try doing a compression test and see if you have lower compression in cylinder 3.
i have an 08 e350 wagon and it goes into limp mode without hesitation it has problems where it shutters when i go 25% throttle and its “happy” range is 2350-3500RPM where the car runs fine. on the highway ive noticed that the rpms do a “dance” of about 100rpm by that i mean it will jump from 2500 to 2600rpm for no reason on the highway. my mechanic has recommended that i replace the coils and spark plugs and said that it could be the torque converter or the transmission need replacing. any predictions on what it could be?
I agree with your mechanic that the ignition system is a likely cause. I would change the spark plugs and consider changing the coils if necessary. Try to test the coils before replacing if you can, as they can be a bit spendy on some cars.
In general, it’s best to change one thing at a time and start with the cheapest stuff first. Always test suspect systems when you can, so you don’t end up throwing parts at it and spending more than you have to.
I have a 1994 Oldsmoble Cutlass Supreme S 3.1lt 4 door and about 5 weeks ago, I was driving my car in the morning & everything was find,but later on that evening it was driving like it had NO POWER,which I thought that my gas filter was clogged,which I had a new one put on & they tigthen up leading up to the my air filter box.they told me that the reasoning was that I needed an ignition coil,plugs.Took it over to Firestone and it was confirmed that it needed that also an ignition module and some plugs which cost $536.69,NO LABOR would be charged.So is that a good deal? Could it be done cheaper?
Cheaper is not always better. I’m not sure if it’s a good deal. Ignition coils are expensive, so it sounds plausible to me.
Hello…my Hyundai accent is losing power after it get hot and even if it’s iddling…plz help
There are many possible causes for an engine losing power when hot.
If you mean “when the ambient temperature is hot”, engines typically run a little slower when it’s hot outside, since hot air is less dense than cold air. Furthermore, hotter temperatures will tax the cooling system more and may cause the engine to pull timing, which reduces power. Timing is pulled to reduce the chance of preignition, which could damage the engine.
If your car is overheating, you may be losing power due to the engine running above the operating temperature it was designed for. This could quickly harm the engine and cause further damage if not addressed quickly.
If the EGR valve is stuck open, this would mean exhaust gas is entering the combustion chamber, even when it shouldn’t be. This would raise intake temperatures and reduce power.
It would be best to take your vehicle to a mechanic you trust to have it checked out in person. You could also try out our ask a mechanic page: http://cartreatments.com/ask-a-mechanic/
Thanks, this is exactly what happened to my Honda. Over 100k miles and it needed a new coil and a tune up.
My car ran out of oil its a Nissan fuga 2007 its rolling over but its not starting when the mechanic checked it with the device it said it needed cam sensors crank sensor and coils we changed the cam and the crank do you think its the coil? Or what to you think we need to look at?
Hey I’ve got the exact same issue, did you ever figure it out?
I have Hyundai Accent 2008, my car goes off atimes while driving even in the middle of the road/highway. I’ll pull over and wait for it to cool (about 10mins) before starting again. Initially I thought it’s fuel pump… But I’ve replaced the pump 3x within 2months. Could it be plug coil problem?
I have a 2009 Saturn Astra, apparently i need to replace my coils. I got quoted $800 for a 4 pk of coils. Where can i buy online cheaper and how do i know exactly what ones to buy?
What does it mean when oil is leaking from your coil pack
I have a seat Leon 2006 1.6l petrol I have been told that the number one spark plug is not firing correctly how would I fix this as I asked the mechanic he said it would cost too much to fix as he would have to replace the part of the engine that the plugs go into would this be correct and would I be better off scrapping the car
I have a 2007 Buick LaCrosse cxl
My 5th cylinder is misfiring when the car is idle. I don’t know much about cars and I bought it with 250,000 miles on it as a way to get back and forth to work and save money for a while. I really don’t know what direction to go in but I’m hearing that replacing the coils might stop the misfiring but I don’t know if I just change one or all and is this going to stop the problem?
I assume you scanned for fault codes to confirm it’s the #5 cylinder? Yes, replacing the coil pack on just the #5 should fix the issue. You may also want to replace your spark plugs if you don’t know the last time that was done.
How many coil in Holden Barina sedan 2004.
You should have 1 coil serving 4 sparkplugs.
linda, check the fuel pump. sometimes dirty gas tanks ruin fuel pumps
99 dodge dakota v8 magnum only firing on 4 wires does anyone know why
i have a 2003 EX300 lexus. i was at a red light waiting for it to turn green and when it did when i went to go my car completely shut off. i put it in gear and turned the key but nothing happen. i could not even hear the starter trying to turn over. my lights in the car work as well as my radio and i have a fairly new battery. i had to have it towed and the guy that towed it told my husband it might me the timing belt. but the timing belt was changed right before i bought the used car and i have put 5000 miles on it since i bought the car. i have never had a problem with the car starting or any other problems with it. like i said it just shut down once i tried to go when the street light turned green but it just completely shut off. no sound when i tried to restart it. i just kind of had a bad feeling with the tow truck/mechanic told my husband it would be the timing belt when he had not even looked at the engine yet. any ideas on what could have caused the car to just shut down without any warnings.
If it were the timing belt, a quick look would be obvious. If it’s not turning over, it’s likely a battery or alternator related problem. Even though you say the battery is new, have its voltage checked. Lights and the radio require less voltage than the starter.
Just an educated guess- fuel pump.
1/29/2019 I changed all three catalytic converters on my 2009 Buick Enclave CXL 2WD. 03/03/2019 the vehicle started misfiring again on cylinder 2, that I had just had repaired 11/28/2018. I changed it out and changed the remaining coils and spark plugs on 4/10/2019 and then changed all 6 coils again just recently on 7/12/2019. I am getting the codes P2099, P2097, P0430 and P0420. If the coils go out what happens to the fuel? Does it go down into the catalytic converter and cause it to malfunction, burning the honeycomb inside?
I have a 2003 lexus es300. My engine will start but will go off unless my leg is on the gas pedal. Then if i eventually move the vehicle, once i push the break pedal down the engine stops. I took the car to a mechanic then he said my 2 coils are bad. I want to know if this is true before getting the coils replaced
It’s definitely possible if the engine is stalling like that. Most likely they scanned for error codes to determine the codes were bad.
I have a Honda Civic 2008 LX, when I checked my ignition coil as said ( disconnecting wire on IG coil) one of the ignition coil disconnecting has no effect on engine rpm. I changed the ignition coil but the same result. The new ignition coil work on other holes. Can that particular wiring may go wrong? The engine check sign came when I was checking, but gone after I drove couple of miles.
Yes, that is possible.
I’ve had my 1, 3, and 5 coils fail (one at a time) over a 12 month period. This morning, my car got jerky again at high speeds and the check engine light came on. I haven’t had a chance to check which coil failed, but there’s got to be some underlying problem. What would cause this?
Usually this is caused by incorrect spark plug gap or a leaking valve cover gasket. I would start with those.
My car has no power to drive up-hill, could it be the faulty coils? the mechanic has advised that they need to change. I was just wondering if the failure to climb the hills is due to the coils.
It’s possible. Also, see this more more acceleration related issues: http://cartreatments.com/car-wont-accelerate-symptoms-and-reasons/
i have a 2000 silverado z71 4w drive 5.3 and just replaced the plugs, wires and put 40000volt coils on it ..ive drove it twice since said repair and both times ive gotten roughly the same distance before the temp gauge gets eratic and the engine starts to act like it wants to stall and gets jerky…about 20 min on the highway at 60 mph the first time i got to my dest. and shut it off and it wouldnt even start up…….im fairly competent when it comes to engines but ive noticed NO leaks or wires undone …….HELP!!!
Did you scan for any trouble codes? It should tell you where the misfire is occurring.
Pretty high mileage. Never changed plug’s yet 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Should I just go ahead and change coil’s and plug’s and be done with it. Quit’s running after running awhile.
The ignition system and the AC system are two different systems. IF YOUR AC system isn’t blowing cold air I’d suggest you take it to a vehicle repair shop that have ac system certified. A mechanic has to be ac certified to work on an air conditioning system on your car do to the fact that the ac system is a closed system with refrigerant in the ac lines. If you air isn’t blowing cold means u may have an ac refrigerant leak some wear or need new refrigerant added to the ac system with a special ac refrigerant mechine.
Some Chevy 6’s will run rough if the dirty oil isn’t changed.
Now it smells really strong of gasoline. Its running rough. Idling up and down. When i come to a stop or slow down it either shuts off or almost shuts off. But has no problem starting back up. Im sure there is an oil leak because i can see the debris building up. But that was there before i changed the spark plugs. Now my check engine light is on and the code it reads is p0300 multiple cylinder misfire. Not sure what i should do from here
I have a 1987 Volvo GLE non turbo. It starts fine when cold, but then after a bunch of driving will stall and not restart for a few hours. No start can also be triggered if you let it idle for a bit and try to restart it. It turns over strong, fuel pump shoots fuel through the lines and the filter is fine, but it just won’t start. After a second of cranking the fuel pump sounds like it is straining… Would a coil cause this?
Have a 2009 Sonata 2.4l with code for #2 misfire
Ignition coil has gook or gunk inside. Not sure where it’s coming from.
Also important to note regarding cost, some cars have 6 coils, one for each spark plug, so you are looking at 6 times the cost of the plug plus labor.
ALSO NOTE ON THE COST, SOME CARS HAVE MORE THAN ONE COIL, SUCH AS ONE FOR EACH SPARK PLUG, SO FOR INSTANCE ONE COIL CAN RANGE FROM $50-120 AND THEN ADD LABOR COST. TO REPLACE SIX COILS IS JUST UNDER AN HOUR OF LABOR.
Hi there…My BMW E39 520i would rumble everytime I started him up in the morning. I took it to a mechanic and been advised that 6 coils need replaced, (6 of them thats a coincidence isn’t it)…I got quoted $1680 to replace them incl labour and gst (NZ goods n services tax).
I went online after that chat with the mechanic and looked around for BMW ignition coils, pkt of 6 would cost -wait for it $344…am i getting ripped off? or am i looking at the wrong product?
I dont have alot of spare cash for repairing this car so im stressing a lot about it, and just want a driveable car.
My BMW E39 520i would rumble everytime I started him up in the morning. I took it to a mechanic and been advised that 6 coils need replaced, (6 of them thats a coincidence isn’t it)…I got quoted $1680 to replace them incl labour and gst (NZ goods n services tax).
I went online after that chat with the mechanic and looked around for BMW ignition coils, pkt of 6 would cost -wait for it $344…am i getting ripped off? or am i looking at the wrong product?
I dont have alot of spare cash for repairing this car so im stressing a lot about it, and just want a driveable car.
The rumble is just the beginning. Prepare for stress and come up with a plan on how to deal with it. Those cars can be bought for cheap, but usually will cost $10,000 a year in “maintenance” to keep as a drive-able car. I bought a used 520i for 6 grand, found out it had some issues, and had a 8 grand bill a week later.
Any time a repair bill is more than 50 percent of a cars value, especially a German car, get rid of it.
I spent more time with the BMW in a tow-truck than in the driver’s seat. You know, it was the ultimate driving experience. Tow-driver and mechanic knew me on a first name basis; I was like part of their family; they became very expensive friends.
One day the mail man asked me if I worked in the shop as I was there all the time when he delivered packages – I often signed for them when the mechanic was working on my car. Those exotic BMW plastic parts are expensive and often require a signature for proof of delivery…Never again.
For my last repair, I told the tow-driver that this would be the last time I would tow it for a repair. The next time it would be towed would be to a junk-yard; I kept my word.
A month later, there was a major issue with the engine burning as much oil as gas, and a week after that the fan belt tore and ripped off the water pump and the car overheated in less than 20 seconds. I called the tow-man to haul it away. During this incident, I was waiting on the side of a busy interstate during rush-hour for hours. Tow guy almost got hit by a car trying to help!
I donated it to a trade school for mechanics (to hopefully keep it off of the road and from being sold again) and I celebrated the day it was taken away by taking my wife out to a steak dinner!
I can relate to some BMW issues. While I didn’t have a 5 series, my E36 M3 was probably the most fun to drive car I’ve ever owned when running but also the most expensive to fix when things went wrong.
I had #2 and #3 ignition coils replaced. But the diagnosis test said #3 is misfiring. Does it need a new and last one replace could be bad
Could be the fuel injectors. I literally just brought my car home today from the BMW dealership for this reason. We replaced the coils as the diagnostic scan tool stated they were misfiring. The car progressively got worse so we took it in. Turns out it was the fuel injectors. Purrs like a kitten again, but I feel as if maybe I wasted some money replacing the coils unnecessarily possibly. Hope you’ve gotten it fixed, hope this review helps! The dealership is not cheap and they try to up sale you and “fix” things that aren’t broken.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe 3.5l 4wd and its starts up ok but when I press the gas pedal it chokes and shuts down entirely. I bought new spark plugs and a coil . Could use the help
I have a 2001 Chevy Lumina, after so many miles it kinda chugs, or kinda makes the car jerk really bad, I thought it was getting hot pretty quick, I changed plugs, changed fuel filter, cleaned out radiator, and everything, it doesn’t make sense why it keeps doing it
check every cylinder, maybe one of the cylinder not working
I have a 2009 Hindi accent 4 cylinder which has just stared vibrating while driving and idling which gets better when excellerating and engine light stays on
Need some imfo so when I take it in I am better equip to deal with repair man. Thank you deedra
should check dtc (diagnostic trouble code) to find out the malfunction
Car was starting up fine but suddenly will just turn over and not start. Can it be bad ignition coil?
Yes it’s possible but it’s more likely it’s a spark plug issue or fuel (lack of) issue.
Will a bad ignition coil cause no spark and gas coming out of injectors?
Will a ignition coil on my 2004 ford f510 4×4 goes out would that make my a.c quit blowing cold
check the air in your tires
If I changed all coils and spark plugs and the 4th coil is showing up faulty. Can this mean that the invite is gone
Definitely not, it will be a problem with the compressor or relevant piping system
It happened to me on my 08 F150. Coil went bad, started missing and the a/c stopped blowing cold. Changed the coil and it started blowing cold again. Coincidence?
I faced same issue, i have hyundai verna(asian) only 10000kms run and i have faulty ignition coil and ac also not blowing cold air at all. Currently Hyundai don’t have stocks of ignition coil here in India. Lol. I guess it has do something with automatic climate control and ignition coil.
No, the two are total unrelated.
False they are related if the wires run along with the coil wires across the coils and the coils break down which would cause a interference in the in anything that runs in the group of wires
can the bad ignition coil caused exsus manifold to red
Car vibration when driving at 60 or above had new tires put on new brack put on had front check out and it’s all good could it be the time it self